Spain produces the greatest ham in the world. The finest are
produced from a breed of pig called the Cerdo Iberico, a breed which only lives
in the South West of Spain and a few can be found in Portugal. It is darker in
colour than other pigs, and is to be found wandering free-range in large
estates with plenty of Encinas (Ilex or Holm Oaks) and Alcornoques (Cork Oak
trees). Iberico ham accounts for only about 10% of all Spanish ham.
It is worth pointing out that these large estates are a good carbon sink, and that the cork produced from these trees should be used for wines instead of screwcaps and extruded plastic. Here we have nature in perfect harmony, why spoil it?
Some 4 million pigs are sacrificed in Spain annually, of
which only 400,000 are Iberico. The Iberico de Bellota ham is rich in proteins,
and in vitamins B1 and B6 (good for the nervous system). 100 grams only contain 185 calories, and it
is high in oleic acid (good for the cardiovascular system). In fact the Iberico
pig is known as “an olive with legs”!
There are two distinct types of ham: Jamon Serrano (mountain
ham, from white pigs) and Jamon Iberico (from the Iberico pig). Both types of
ham require a minimum curing period of 18 weeks.
While Serrano ham can be produced anywhere, the principal
production zones for Iberico, which, like wines, have Denominaciones de Origen,
are:
Jamon de Pedroches Jamon de Dehesa de
Extremadura Jamon de Guijuelo
Jamon de Huelva Jamon de Teruel Jamon de Trivelez
Iberico de bellota
(acorn): The finest of all, the free-range pigs eat what they can find in
their environment as well as the oak acorns which help make the meat extra finely
marbled and delicious. In the run-up to slaughter, the pigs can gain a kilo a
day in weight as they gorge on their beloved acorns. This makes the fat in the meat
largely mono-unsaturated – or good for you! It is a shame how many people
separate off the fat, but it is not only very tasty, but very low in saturated
fat – and part of the wonderful experience.
Iberico de recebo:
Fed on acorns, pasture and feed (mainly
cereal)
Iberico: Fed on feed (also used to be known as “Pata
Negra” or black foot, but this term is no longer used officially, as all
iberico hams have black feet).
Ham is made only from the rear legs of the pig, but the
cured meat from the front legs is delicious as well, and is called “Paleta”.
The paleta is smaller and cheaper than jamon, a whole Iberico de Bellota leg of
which can set you back up to 650 euros.
There are many other cured products made from the Iberico pig:
Chorizo is a
cooking or slicing sausage made from the meat and spiced with “Pimenton” or
paprika.
Salchichon is a
slicing sausage made from finer cuts with peppercorns in it.
(cana de) Lomo is
a length of cured pork loin served in slices.
Taquitos are tiny
chunks of left over ham, which are lovely in omelettes or stews.
Morcilla is the
Spanish equivalent of black pudding
And of course the meat does not have to be cured. Much is
sold in restaurants in the form of chops, fillets etc., and my favourite, “Secreto”,
an internal cut from below the back which looks a little like a fan and is a
little fattier. But it barbecues beautifully.
Curing is a
process of drying meat to preserve it. It is wreathed in salt and left to hang
in “bodegas” where the temperature and humidity are as constant as possible. It
is by no means peculiar to Spain, there being the lovely Prosciuttos and salume
of Italy, for example. What a shame, though, that Britain and Sweden still boil
their hams!
Carving Spanish ham
is quite a skill, and for this purpose a special mount is used for it, called a
“Jamonero”. A very long narrow-bladed knife is used, and only the amount needed
is carved, after which the ham is covered with a cloth.
One of the best ham producers is Sanchez Romero Carvajal
with their famous brand 5J (or Cinco Jotas). They are based in Jabugo, Huelva,
where probably the best ham comes from. The firm is owned by the Sherry and
brandy bodega Osborne. Barbadillo are also involved with ham from the Sierra de
Sevilla. Of course, good ham needs good Sherry, and the Finos, Manzanillas and
light Amontillados will do it proud.
In Spain there are specialist Iberico ham shops, where you
can buy any Iberico product, along with interesting cheeses and olives. They
are a must for visitors – and locals alike! At Christmas time, many business
gifts consist of Iberico, and there are often to be found gift packs Including
Iberico and wine.
Spain is rightly immensely proud of Jamon Iberico, and if
you haven’t tried it yet, I urge you to do so. It will enhance any good Sherry!
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