Friday, 29 March 2019

Vino Blanco Bijuré 2018 12%, Coop Albarizas

Fairly pale strawy gold with golden highlights.
Fresh, forthcoming and attractive with lots of ripe fruit like apple, quince and apricot and traces of white flowers, honeysuckle and even a faint honeyed note. There is a certain generosity to it and a touch more complexity than Palomino alone would offer; those traditional old grape varieties really make a difference.
There is some depth here and the roundness of that ripe fruit is backed up with refreshing acidity giving it a pleasant tanginess. Then there is the classic Trebujena salinity giving a nice tension with the fruit and that dry chalky texture. Really good and interesting wine for the money.
This is the second release of Bijuré after last year´s very successful launch to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Albarizas Cooperative in Trebujena. It is a very interesting - not to say delicious - wine as it is made from old vine vidueño - a blanket term for other old traditional varieties which include Perruno, Mantúa, Barcelonés, Castellano, Cañocazo, Beba etc. and perhaps a little Palomino - all grown in albariza soils overlooking the area´s Guadalquivir marshland. The must was co-fermented in old butts seasoned with Fino, Amontillado and Oloroso before minimal stabilisation and bottling in late December. Only 3,000 bottles were produced. The wine can´t have any appellation status because of its use of no longer permitted varieties - or indeed the lack of a DO - but it is great to see them being used to such good effect. Maybe that is why Williams & Humbert buy some 50% of their production. Bijuré is a gypsy word for golden.
11.70, De Albariza

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