Sunday, 9 April 2017

Lagar Ambrosio NV 12.5%, Bodegas Ambrosio

Bright, pale green tinged gold with golden highlights, legs.
Fresh and very attractive mix of yellow fruits, white flowers and herbs; it really smells of the countryside where it comes from. There are notes of quince, apricot and plum, possibly even kiwi, none of which dominate the lovely florality.
There is an element of sweetness here from the late harvested grapes but it is balanced out by a trace of bitterness typical of the grape, leaving a dry feel. This gives the wine an interesting texture, as if sweet wine were blended with dry, and good balance. It is fruity, tangy refreshing and quite idiosyncratic, in the nicest possible way.
This interesting and attractive wine has real character and is made from the Perruno grape, once widespread in the Sierra de Cádiz but pretty much all that is left now is the 3 hectare vineyard belonging to José Antonio Bocanegra Párraga and his sister Ana who inherited it from their father in 1982 along with the family tabanco. It is located in Olvera in the Sierra de Cádiz. Perruno has almost died out largely because its yields are low and it has thin skins which are difficult to ripen requiring late harvesting. Its very name translates as "not good". It may turn out to be a useful grape with an ever warming climate, however. Nevertheless the Bocanegras have persevered and succeeded. The wine is not aged in oak and is bottled young. I believe it is a 2015, but couldn't find any reference to vintage on the labels or cork.
7.15 euros, Licores Corredera

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