Monday, 11 July 2016
Oloroso Barajuela 2013 17%, Bodegas Luis Pérez
Fairly rich pale gold, legs.
Very Oloroso for its mere two plus years of age, notes of toast spread with almond and walnut paste, still quite fruity with a slight orange peel note and a slight trace of cinnamon but predominantly nutty and with an apparent sweetness.
Youth shows through here too with fruity Palomino and apple sauce notes and gentle oxidation. It is not short of flavour: there is a soft smooth glyceric nuttiness and it is well rounded, dry, long and very charming with none of the austerity older Olorosos develop with much longer ageing.
This was a cask sample (tasted late February 2016) of a delightful and innovative wine produced by Willy Pérez, son of Luis Pérez. Unfortunately Willy was in bed with a cold so I couldn't ask him about it, but it is a vintage Oloroso made from later-harvested Carrascal grapes with, therefore, a higher sugar content. Fermenting to 17% naturally, and with no fortification, there was no flor and the wine began to oxidise. Some two and a half years later this fascinating wine came about, perhaps resembling the wines of the past before the introduction of the solera system.
Around 30 euros for a 50cl bottle but very limited availability. I couldn't find a picture of it so here is a picture of the Fino; the presentation is identical except that the Oloroso has a black label.