Monday, 18 July 2016

Amontillado 18.5%, Bodegas Juan Piñero

Lightish in colour, deep gold-tinged amber with brassy highlights, legs.
Forthcoming and fairly intense with strong Sanlúcar overtones being on the light side but zesty and quite saline with a slight savoury, briny edge. It still has reminders of Manzanilla pasada with slightly autolytic notes, and it appears younger than it is, yet there are lots of lightly toasted hazelnuts and a hint of dry scrub rounded by just a hint of glyceric sweetness.
Good zippy entry with tangy acidity give reminders still of the Manzanilla past. The bitterness from the flor and a trace of wood tannin are balanced by the roundness of alcohol and glycerol. It is good and dry with an appealing yet serious nutty/savourycharacter and great length.
Made from Pago Hornillo musts bought from the Blanco brothers in Sanlúcar, so the quality is undeniable. The wine aged as a Manzanilla for 12 years giving it immense pasada character before further fortification to start its oxidative ageing which lasted over 6 years. It appears quite young at first look but has more complexity - and age - on further examination. Excellent value for money.
9.00 euros from Cuatrogatos

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