Thursday, 28 July 2016
Fino en rama Añada 2009 15.5%, Williams & Humbert
Deepish brassy gold with golden highlights, legs.
Full, very clean, super interesting and very complex with slight waxy, olive brine notes, flor is not overpowering at first but certainly obvious, and while its bitter, almost sourdough almondiness grows, a gentle oxidative note comes through. There is a certain Fino-Amontillado character, but that flor shines through with traces of quince jelly, cider and autumn leaves.
Full and solid for a Fino at the start with those waxy, briny, oxidative notes then it gets dry as the flor kicks in, and (I mean kicks). There is real presence and weight on the palate so this is not some delicate Fino but a big sturdy wine. There is a slight nutty, oily texture which perhaps smoothens the bitterness a bit, and a very long very clean finish. You know you've had a glass of Sherry!
This amazing wine, from the Williams Colección de Añadas which are now being regularly released, is made from grapes harvested in 2009 from W&H vineyards in Añina and Carrascal and fortified to 15% before being left to age statically under Consejo supervision and therefore without any interference till it was bottled in February 2016. It is therefore about seven and a half years old and showing real class. It would be SO interesting to know how it would have ended up with further ageing in butt; going Amontillado perhaps, but then how will it age in bottle? Fabulously! It is worth remembering that this is only the second release - ever - of a vintage Fino, and W&H released the first, the 2006. A drinking tip: don't over chill it. 93 Parker Points.
11.70 euros per 50cl bottle from Licores Corredera