Saturday, 23 July 2016

La Bota de Fino 35 15%, Equipo Navazos (re-taste)

Very slightly hazy amber with brass reflections, legs.
Full, pungent nose with prominent damp scrub notes of flor, quite evolved yet amazingly fresh, and bottle age has only conferred more complexity. With only the slightest oxidative notes this is effectively a concentrated mature Fino with bitter notes of dried flowers and just a trace of cabezuela. There is a thrilling wild, natural character to it enhanced by its time in bottle.
Full with classic Macharnudo generosity, dry with  the slightest trace of background fruit and a gentle texture, moderately low acidity is compensated for by the bitterness of the flor which also gives it tremendous length. Lovely wine.
Bottled June 2012, this absolutely delicious wine has 4 years bottle age, and clearly shows what Equipo Navazos are aiming at - not just outstanding Sherry, but Sherry which will evolve over years and just keep on giving.  Its appearance would indicate that there might be something wrong with it, but there definitely isn't. Any white wine gains colour over time, and this was bottled en rama without "stabilisation" so inevitably has a little sediment - hence the haze. The more that is left in the wine, the more there is to develop, and this has done a terrific job. Anyway, this is Fino from Valdespino's Macharnudo Alto vineyard and the wine was selected from the Inocente solera and the first and second criaderas. It has an average age at bottling of about ten years. Last tasted May 2014 and it has just got better with a little more concentration.
22 euros from Pura Cepa, La Cala de Mijas (Malaga)

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