Sunday, 3 July 2016
Amontillado en rama Añada 2003 19%, Williams & Humbert
Topaz to light amber with brassy highlights, legs.
Fantastic and interesting with lots of Fino flor notes to the fore and comparatively early oxidative characteristics - apple (almost cider), and a gentle oily, nutty note - followed by the more usual hints of glyceric sweetness, hazelnuts and bitter almond. Definitely Amontillado, but a young one and certainly not lacking character nor that charm so common to Amontillados.
Fairly intense, dry with an attractive tang and texture yet not so much of the glyceric sweetness. Up front that cidery note is still there along with a fair bit of bitterness from the flor before it gives way to more nuttiness but not so much toasted nuts as bitter almond. Terrific length.
This seriously interesting wine is a pretty rare thing: a young vintage Amontillado bottled en rama. From the 2003 harvest, it was aged statically and sealed (although one can check on progress as long as a Consejo representative is present) till it was bottled in February 2016. Williams & Humbert have a long tradition of vintage wines going back to 1920, and these old wines are occasionally bottled for sale at high prices, but this is a new departure from oenologist Paola Medina: more accessibly priced wines with serious and unique character made by crianza biológica which is not easy to manage with vintage wines. 92 Parker Points.
25.75 euros per 50cl bottle from Licores Corredera