Wednesday, 13 July 2016
Manzanilla Aurora 15%, Bodegas Yuste
Paleish strawy gold with golden glints, legs.
Forthcoming saline and yeasty, really showing off the atmosphere of Sanlúcar. Seawater, olive brine, traces of seaweed and flor join a slightly buttery hint of cabezuela to give a fresh, slightly wild aroma. Quite intense and pasada.
Similar. Lean at first then develops weight and considerable complexity as it warms up on the palate, dry and with a gentle acidity which carries that freshness through along with the slightly savoury pasada notes which linger for some time. A classic wine of its place.
At last Aurora is back on the market! After the demise of Pedro Romero the XIX century solera (which had no fewer than 25 criaderas!) was bought by Francisco Yuste. He relaunched it in October 2015 with a new label, which at least keeps the original typeface though the colour has changed to blue. The solera now produces Manzanilla Senorita Irene first so the Aurora solera now has a much more manageable 6 criaderas, 3 of which are at the Miraflores bodega and the other three and the solera are at the bodega Los Angeles. The wine was originally named after Pedro Romero's wife, but there's a happy coincidence in that Francisco Yuste's daughter is also called Aurora, and is an executive with the firm. It doesn't say so on the label, but this wine is really a Manzanilla Pasada, it is after all about nine years old, Pedro Romero felt that the word "pasada" had negative connotations. The brand was originally launched in 1907. Notes on the original version can also be found on the blog.
Price6.50 euros from Er Guerrita