Tuesday, 23 September 2014

Oloroso VORS 20%, Bodegas Tradicion

Mid depth amber mahogany with reddish tints through yellow to a touch of green at the rim, slow legs.
Absolutely pure Oloroso in its true sense - fragrant. And complex, yet so beautifully integrated it is difficult to separate all the aromas. Open, enticing, sweet and very nutty, hazelnuts, turron yema tostada, crema catalana and spices like cinnamon, vanilla and old butts and a trace of walnut in syrup, all that and amazingly fresh.
Nicely rounded with that sweetness carrying through round the edges balancing a touch of tannin from all those years in wood leaving the wine dry. Delicious, very nutty, and that cinnamon hint and glyceric almost marmalade and caramel sweetness provide a perfect counterpoint to the dry tannin and walnut shell bitterness in the background. Fantastic balance, very long and clean with a nice tangy finish leaving you yearning for more. And some old cheese and Jabugo ham...
Seriously fine old Oloroso from a 7 criadera solera established in 1850 by Agustin Blazquez, later taken over by Domecq, from whom it was bought in the late 1990's. Tradicion's capataz, Jose Blandino worked these soleras at Domecq and later joined Tradicion. The wine is of course well over 30 years (about 45 in fact), but 30 years is the highest classification available. At 20% alc/vol the strength is comparatively low for a wine of this age, presumably because of the higher than average number of criaderas and more frequent movement of the wine. This is from a lot of 1800 bottles.
£ 58.50/75cl from Raeburn Fine Wines, Edinburgh who are UK importers.

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