Tuesday, 2 September 2014

La Bota de Palo Cortado Viejisimo No. 48 Bota Punta, 21.5%, Equipo Navazos

Deep golden amber to light mahogany with coppery tints and  a trace of green at the rim, legs.
Spectacular and super complex, bursting with nuts of all sorts, turron guirlache (almond brittle), American oak, hints of tobacco, oak, a slight hint of yeast autolysis, traces of honey on toast, caramel,and  that implied sweetness and grace of the Amontillado.
Huge, mouthfilling, dry and textured with deep old wood and walnut grip like an Oloroso but very well rounded with terrific length. There are traces of Oxford marmalade orange peel, raisin, caramel, various nuts, a spicy almost cedary note from the wood and a trace of bitterness at the finish which betrays its Sanlucar and Flor origins. This is a very old and exceptionally fine wine.
Quite magnificent! It is exquisite, and it  is difficult to do it justice in tasting notes. Sell the car, the TV, just buy some! This wine comes from the end butt of the andana (row of barrels) of the GF 30 solera at Gaspar Florido, now owned by Pedro Romero in Sanlucar. The wine in end butts can be slightly different to that in others as they can be near doorways and have a subtly different microclimate.

The wine was drawn off in December 2013 and is somewhere between 50 and 80 years old. This solera also provided the wine for bottlings 41 and 51, and was located in an old bodega in the Calle Rubinos in the heart of Sanlucar until it was moved to a ramshackle old bodega on the road to Trebujena. It was here that Jesus Barquin, Eduardo Ojeda and Alvaro Giron tasted the wines with old Gaspar Florido and noted that their quality was in direct inverse proportion to the stae of the bodega which housed them. It also housed the solera GF25. Both these soleras are now at Pedro Romero's Sacristia.

This is bottled history: it is becoming increasingly rare in the Sherry area to find wines of this great age which are also balanced, and the chances of coming across gems like this are unlikely to be repeated, especially at this price, much less the luxury of a choice of barrels of them.
A scary £65 per half bottle approximately, but I for one would willingly pay that for this quality. You could easily pay hundreds of pounds for an inferior claret. Imported into UK by Rhone to Rioja.

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