Sunday, 14 February 2016
Oloroso 18%, Juan Piñero
Paleish, amber with coppery gold highlights, legs.
Forthcoming, vanilla, quite nutty, turron yema tostada, hints of orange and warm spices, cinnamon, a hint of lebkuchen, American oak and the slightest savoury note balance with the glyceric sweetness, and there is an openness about it which shows maturity.
Generous, lively, open textured and very tasty. A sweet note at the start gives way to dryness with a trace of tannin and decent acidity which gives it amazing length. There are notes of bitter orange marmalade which, along with the spice, oak and nutty notes give it a lot of charm complexity and finesse. Delicious.
This wine is about 25 years old which makes it an absolute gift at the price. On the (rather boring) label there is no mention of its age, only on the website. What a missed opportunity! The grapes came from the Pagos Añina and Macharnudo and the wine, which is bought in, matures through 3 criaderas before reaching the solera from which there is one annual saca. There are 750 butts in the whole solera which is in the bodega in C/Francisco Javier, Jerez. The alcohol content might be expected to be slightly higher given the age, but it works really well at 18%.