Sunday, 21 February 2016

Manzanilla Pasada Maruja 16%, Juan Piñero

Mid depth strawy brass colour with golden reflections and legs.
Powerful flor at first mixed with that damp humid atmosphere of the bodega. There's a slight rancio note with a very slightly buttery oxidative hint, lots of salinity and a note of the smell that flowers have when they are finished. And there are traces of rope and nuts as well. Deep, complex, serious.
Quite intense, again flor up front, good and bitter, a slight over-toasted rancio almost buttery nutty note, but there's still plenty of tangy zip and a serious side too with very slightly earthy leafy notes, hints of autolysis and lots of flor on the long finish.
In a clear bottle to appreciate its golden colour and sealed with a 2 inch driven cork and red wax this is an interesting wine. It is calculated to be between 12-15 years old and the flor is now only appearing for a few weeks of the year in spring and autumn, so biological ageing is slowly coming to an end . Apparently a carbon 14 test put it at 20 years old, which is remarkable as it still has such strong Manzanilla characteristics, all be it aged ones. Definitely Manzanilla Pasada. The grapes came from El Hornillo and its 16% alcohol is natural. Two annual sacas. There are very few butts of this unfortunately so availability isn't great.
19,50 Euros per 50cl. bottle

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