Saturday, 27 February 2016

Fino Camborio 15%, Juan Piñero

Pale to mid straw with golden highlights, legs
Forthcoming, almost pungent with plenty of flor but slightly drier than that of Sanlúcar, more scrub-like. There is some depth and body here with saline, olive brine, almond notes, and traces of dough and dried grass. A  really good nose, and good and fresh.
Full, weighty, assertive with an attractive flor bitterness, fresh, clean and briny, and very dry with a fairly low acidity, but that bitterness gives length in plenty. Hard to have just one glass...
Camborio used to be a very reputable brand of Fernando A de Terry in El Puerto. They were taken over by Rumasa in 1981 and sold by the State to Harveys in 1984. Harveys became part of Allied Domecq in 1994, and later part of Beam Global and now Emperador. The Terry wines now available from Harveys are just a basic range. Somewhere along the line this Fino was sold to Juan Piñero, who has treated it with the respect it deserves. For a start he has Ramiro Ibáñez as consultant oenologist. The 400 butt solera has 3 criaderas and there is only 1 annual saca. The wine is 8-9 years old and the mosto for the solera comes from the Blanco Brothers' vineyards in the pagos of Macharnudo and Añina.
7.85 Euros, great value

The original Camborio

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