Thursday, 11 February 2016
Amontillado Mons Urium VORS 18%, Bodegas Urium
Amber to light mahogany with copper tints, slight trace green to rim, legs.
Supremely elegant and fairly intense almost honeyed toasted almonds and hazelnuts, traces of oak, a hint of glyceric sweetness is perfectly balanced by a gentle sharp note from the crianza biologica along with a hint of tobacco. A serious yet charming Amontillado.
Reasonably crisp on entry then spreads attractive nutty, barrel flavours round the palate. There is some gentle tannin there but not enough to upset the equilibrium with the glycerine. Clean, complex, lively and precise, it has terrific length and isn't so concentrated as to dominate food. Lovely.
Certainly all of 30 years old, and I would venture to suggest a good few more. This is a classic old Amontillado which shows all its component parts yet they are perfectly harmonised with considerable age. It is bottled with virtually no filtration, and tastes exactly as it does in the bodega. Like we all wish we could do, it wears its heart on its sleeve and is ageing gracefully.
€ 33 per 50cl bottle in Spain. Available in UK from Sherry Boutique