The European species of vine, known as Vitis
Vinifera or “the wine bearing vine”, has many enemies. The two most deadly are
Oïdium, a fungus, and Phylloxera Vastatrix “the destroyer”, a tiny aphid which
kills Vinifera vines by sucking the sap from their roots. Both of these plagues
originated in the United States where various species of native vines had grown
for millennia but had, over time, developed resistance to Phylloxera. Sulphur
is effective against Oïdium.
Pure white chalky Albariza |
During the 1860s attempts to deal with Oïdium
in the vineyards saw the import to Europe of large numbers of resistant
American vines, however nobody realised they were also importing Phylloxera,
which was all but invisible to the human eye. Its effects were first observed
in Europe in 1863 as vines mysteriously died, and by the turn of the century it
had ravaged most of the vineyards causing economic chaos. Jerez was visited by
Phylloxera in 1894, but by then the answer had been found: grafting Vinifera
scions onto resistant American rootstocks.
Injerto en yema or bud graft |
This was not as easy as it sounds. First of all
every Vinifera vine had to be
uprooted, burned and replaced with American vines which had to be selected carefully
for their ability to grow happily in alkaline albariza soil and to accept the
graft. Many old Vinifera grape varieties were lost for their inability to do
this, but gradually the vineyards were restored with the Palomino coming out
most successfully. While grafting cured the vines it could not get rid of
Phylloxera however, and therefore this process must still be undertaken every
time a new vine is planted.
Injerto en espiga or stem graft |
Young “portainjertos” or rootstocks are planted
in wintertime so they can take advantage of the rainfall which will help
develop their roots. The rootstocks in current use are usually crossings of the
American vines Vitis Berlandieri for its root structure and tolerance of
albariza, and Vitis Riparia to help with the graft. This takes place in August
and September when a small piece of the stem of the rootstock is cut out and a
Palomino bud is inserted tightly. This is called “injerto en yema” or a bud
graft. Then the graft is wrapped with raffia leaving the bud peeping through
and covered with soil for protection. By next spring the graft should have
taken and the raffia will be removed. If it hasn’t taken another graft called
“injerto en espiga” or a stem graft will be carried out. Successful grafting is
later followed by pruning to organise the vine for full production in its
fourth year. It is amazing how much work – or “graft” - goes into a bottle of
Sherry!
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