Sunday, 27 December 2015
Palo Cortado VORS Mons Urium 19%, Bodegas Urium
Attractive bright chestnut amber with gold and copper tints and a trace of green at the rim, legs.
Intensely fragrant with lots of hazelnut and traces of garrapiñada, orange zest, cinnamon, polished antique furniture and bodega barrels. It needs time to show its endless aromatic nuances which are not made more difficult by the higher alcohol levels in some wines of this age.
Fresh and nutty on entry, almost tight even, but it slowly reveals a more open texture, traces of warm spice and a bit of body. Many Palos Cortados are slightly fuller, more Oloroso in style but I feel this still retains more the Amontillado style thanks to its precision, yet as the palate develops some of those generous Oloroso characteristics do develop, particularly traces of raisin and cinnamon. Long and endlessly fascinating with a hint of tannic dryness which one can easily forgive.
This exquisite old wine is actually over 40 years old (nearer 45) and yet its alcoholic strength is not excessive, allowing its great elegance and balance to shine through. This solera feeds another which takes the wine to well in excess of 100 years (Gran Señor) and even at that age it still has this amazing drinkability without over-concentration.
€ 33 in Spain. Available in UK from Sherry Boutique