22.3.19 “Fino” La E in BIB Causing Concern

The Bag in Box saga has not gone away. The appeal lodged at the High Court of Andalucía by the bodegas which wish to use this contentious container is still awaiting a final ruling. Meanwhile the deal between Bodegas Argüeso and the Coop Virgen de Palomares in Trebujena by which the latter is filling Manzanilla “La E” into BIB for sale as Fino from Trebujena is creating tension in trade relations and doing nothing to help the ongoing efforts to resolve the area´s various issues. 

It seems that this deal was done solely to be able continue selling wine in BIB, which is legal in the production zone, but is skating on thin ice as for one reason it risks consumer confusion as “La E” is a popular Manzanilla which has suddenly become Fino, and from Trebujena. Further, it seems that the owner of Argüeso, Francisco Yuste, has been supplying small barrels to points of sale marked “Manzanilla La E” which contain BIB marked “Fino La E”.

As a result of a complaint to the Consejo Regulador in which an unnamed bodega urgently requests a precautionary suspension of the issuing of DO seals for “Fino La E” and for its sale to be prohibited, the matter will be debated at the next plenary meeting. The Consejo invited the Coop president for talks on the matter but he prefers to keep his council till after the plenary.

Virgen de Palomares is one of the cooperatives which would like to be included in the ageing zone, but this is at odds with its decision to fill “LA E” into BIB and is worrying the other coops including the one in Chiclana. There they want to remain in the production zone so as to be able to sell wine in BIB.

Vino Blanco Viñalquivir 2017 12%, Coop Virgen Palomares

Appearance
Bright pale silvery gold with the faintest trace of green.
Nose

Young, fresh and moderately exuberant in its youth with lots of orchard aromas like apple, pear and a suggestion of herbs and flowers. There are also faint traces of confectionery and a gently appealing rawness of youth: faint notes of apple or pear skin.

Palate

Again that confectionery note, it is very soft, fruity and light with low acidity and a little bit of residual sugar. It is dry but not 100% dry, and just a little more acidity would have helped by giving it extra zip. Still, while the fruit lasts it is very attractive. It is a year old already and holding up well.

Comments

This is one of the two white table wines produced by the coop (the other is the annual mosto which is sold as soon as it is made, from November, mostly in the bars and tabancos of the area. There is a prize for the best, and Palomares has won it). Viñalquivir is the more serious of the two. It is made from members´ grapes, grown on albariza, which are mostly Palomino (over 90%) but not all, the rest being "vidueño" or a mix of usually older varieties still grown in the area. It is cold fermented using selected yeasts in stainless steel tanks, and after malo-lactic and a period of setttling it is filtered and bottled, young, fresh and perfect for vegetable and seafood dishes. It is a Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz.

Price
3.95 euros, De Albariza

Fino 15%, Coop Virgen de Palomares

Appearance
Clean pale strawy gold with golden highlights.
Nose

Fairly intense flor notes, slightly saline and herbal with lots of bread dough and faint almond hints. There is just a faint trace of appley fruit to add to the mix which is really quite attractive.

Palate

Apple and flor are the two dominating flavours here as it fades through the other aforementioned characteristics. It is very fresh and clean with traces of salt, straw and almond, gently bitter in place of acidity, and is lightly textured as only wines from albariza can be: chalky, and has a very gentle grip and decent length.

Comments

The coop Virgen de Palomares was founded in 1957 and now has 580 members controlling 560 hectares of vineyard which produce 5 million litres of must. Interestingly the bodega was constructed in 1963 by a company belonging to Rumasa. They sell a modest range of "Sherry" - being in the production zone means they can´t sell it with a DO - vinegar and a couple of white table wines. This Fino is fermented at 24C in 63,000 litre temperature controlled stainless steel tanks and aged about 3 and a half years through two criaderas and a solera, and is very drinkable for the money. Despite being from vineyards reasonably close to the Guadalquivir estuary, the wine has a more Fino than Manzanilla style.

Price
3 euros ex bodega