A new study into the
differences between Fino and Manzanilla
AECOVI , a large cooperative has completed a two year study
which shows that the differences, particularly in salinity, between Fino and
Manzanilla are not simply due to the crianza of the wines being in different
places. They have found a close relationship between salinity and proximity of
the vineyard to the sea in wines aged biologically (under Flor).
In the second half of the XIX century the ageing of the
wines was changed from a system of anadas (or vintage wines) to the now
well-known solera system, largely to suit the English importers who wanted more
consistent styles. This served to reinforce the “myth” that Sherry is made in
the bodega and that the differences in style of Finos and Manzanillas were due
to the place of crianza, not the grapes themselves.
Under current regulations (the Reglamento) the “myth” is
continued as regards definitions of Fino and Manzanilla. The only real difference
according to the Consejo is that Manzanilla must be aged in Sanlucar. The
grapes themselves can come from anywhere in the Sherry zone, although in
practice many do come from the Sanlucar area. Equally, the grapes for the Finos
of Jerez and Puerto de Santa Maria may come from anywhere in the zone. Custom
has become law and has been accepted.
The study found that the grapes grown near the sea contain
more sodium and that the salinity is more concentrated in the summer months –
particularly around harvest time – in areas which are exposed to westerly winds
and nightly dewfall. This compares with the drier vineyards of Jerez where the
winds alternate more, east and west. Aecovi studied 27 parcels of vineyard, 22
in Sanlucar, 4 in Jerez and one in Chipiona which link the location of the
vineyard to the salinity in the grapes for the first time.
Temperatures, rainfall and solar radiation were found to be
very similar in Jerez and Sanlucar, but the latter has more humidity due to the
west wind – which brings more salt. Soils and leaves were analysed in all 27
parcels, showing more salt in the Sanlucar area especially towards harvest
time.
As well as field studies, the investigators analysed the
wines themselves – 30 bottles of Manzanilla and 24 bottles of Fino from both
Jerez and Puerto de Santa Maria, all available commercially, with concurrent
results. The Manzanillas contained an average of 70 mg/l compared to an average
of 40 in the Finos, thus reinforcing the Aecovi theory that wines are born in
the vineyard, not the bodega, but due to the homogeneity required by export
markets this has been lost.
The aim of the study is to put value back into the vineyard,
says Carmen Romero, manager of Aecovi, and perhaps help save it from housing
development because of its seaside position. Also up for consideration now is
the notion of redefining the Denominacion de Origen Manzanilla, restricting its
production to only coastal vineyards.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteDear Paula, a few days ago a Scottish whisky distillery released a new single malt whisky which was partially matured in Ex-Manzanilla-Casks. This whisky has a rather salty taste to it which is said to be related to the Manzanilla casks. So thanks for this interesting article on salinity.
ReplyDelete