My appointment for the next day was in Jerez with the team at bodegas Sanchez Romate: Commercial Director Marcelino Piquero, International Area Director Cesar Gutierrez and Miriam Alonso from the Export Department. A nicer and more good humoroued bunch would be hard to find. The bodega complex is in the central Calle Lealas - where it has always been, and is still family owned after 230 years.
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Bodegas Sanchez Romate, Jerez |
Romate has a range of Sherries of serious quality, but their biggest line in terms of turnover is the out-standingly good brandy Cardenal Mendoza, aged in oloroso and PX butts for complexity and smoothness. They also offer an excellent rum, Manacas. But we're on the subject of Sherry here. They offer three ranges: the Romate range, more of a commercial range; the Special Reserve range, which are serious and very old wines; and the Old & Plus range which are the VORS wines, all excellent value for money.
Soleras and Criaderas of Fino Marismeno, Sanchez Romate |
The bodega is old and traditional, but is nevertheless equipped with modern stainless steel tanks, pumps, filtration etc., the perfect fusion of old and new. We left the office and entered the old, nicely humid bodegas permeated with that beautiful scent of ageing Sherry. After much discussion Cesar very kindly took me to lunch at the excellent restaurant Carbona, in what used to be a bodega. There the discussion continued over a wonderful meal and a glass or two of Romate's gorgeous Fino Perdido (see tasting notes).
Restaurante Carbona, Jerez |
On my way home from a fascinating visit and a lovely lunch, I happened across one of those wonderful Jerezano institutions, the Tabanco El Pasaje. Surely another glass of Sherry wouldn't kill me, I thought, and went in. The tabancos are traditional bars serving Sherry from the barrel (in a frozen glass), and there is always a good atmosphere. Here, some people were seated at a table with a guitar, singing and strumming as best they could with all that Sherry. One quick glass soon turned into three and the conversation got more interesting till I decided that a siesta was what I needed most. After all, there was a whole evening ahead.
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Tabanco El Pasaje, Jerez |
But in the end, a quiet dinner was what I needed - after an aperitif of Fino La Ina at the popular central bar the Gallo Azul, of course! It is a great place - between the Market and the Plaza del Arenal roughly, with a dining room upstairs and tapas downstairs. Great for people watching!
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Gallo Azul, Jerez |
El Pasaje is my favourite bar in Jerez. Going back in a few weeks and can't wait.
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