Wednesday, 17 January 2018

Table Wine Bodegas: Compañía de Vinos Entre Dos Aguas

Miguel Flores Toscano and Francisco Coro Leveque are old friends who share a passion to make wine by traditional methods which bring out the character of the vineyard. Miguel Flores is the nephew of Antonio Flores, the oenologist at González Byass. They work with fellow enthusiasts Ignacio Soto and José Andrés Lucena as well as a few helpful friends, and have been producing handmade unfortified organic wines with minimal resources and maximum enthusiasm since their first release in 2016. Interestingly the 2015 vintage was buried in the vineyard in 2016 to see how it evolved one and a half metres underground. It was dug up in May 2018 and results are keenly awaited!

Miguel Flores Toscano with Aminea (foto:Manu Gracia)

The expression “entre dos aguas” (between two waters) implies indecision and is also the name of a spectacular guitar piece by Paco de Lucía, while a techo de dos aguas is a pitched roof of the type commonly used in bodegas. The name of this venture however, comes from being between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. The lads are refurbishing a bodega near Mesas de Asta between Jerez and Trebujena which used to belong to Almocadén.

Miguel in the vineyard

Here completely artisan methods are used. Grapes are destemmed by hand, trodden by foot and pressed in an old hand operated basket press while the must is fermented in old butts. They make white wine from Palomino grapes from the classic pagos of the Marco de Jerez; Añina, Balbaina, Miraflores (Viña El Armijo) and Macharnudo, a project they call Los Cuatro Pagos. The only difference between these wines is the vineyard. They also make a sparkling Gewürztraminer (you read that right!) completely by hand and with very basic equipment either by the traditional method using organic cane sugar for the licor de expedición or the ancestral method using concentrated PX must. It is called Aminea and only 100 bottles were produced. Another project is a sweet late harvest Tempranillo picked in the third week of October. This innovative and enthusiastic bodega will surely earn great success.

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