Wednesday, 3 January 2018

Manzanilla Superior en rama 15%, Elías González Guzmán

Bright deepish amber tinged gold with golden highlights.
Full and rich with lots of briny saline bitter flor, scrub, straw, wax and traces of butter and faint traces of oxidation. There is a lot of complexity here yet it is extremely fresh with loads of character.
It has lots of flavour too. Quite intense and dry with attractive briny bitterness balanced by notes of sourdough, almond and butter. This is virtually Manzanilla Pasada, though it doesn't say so on the label, and is delicious with a lovely long clean finish.
This bodega is located on the broad Avenida Quinto Centenario, open to the Poniente and only a few hundred yards from the beach, which explains its classic Manzanilla character. The wine is from an old solera made up of toneles, which are double sized butts and not uncommon in Sanlúcar. It is bottled en rama at about seven years old. This excellent and quite sophisticated wine would develop really well in bottle.
12.95, De Albariza

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