While the
vineyards of Jerez have been drastically reduced, producers are looking at them
again as a decisive factor in the final quality of the wine, and indeed other
products such as brandy. As things stand, 95% of the grapes for brandy come (legally) from
outside the Sherry zone, from La Mancha, as Jerez can’t produce nearly enough,
but it would add value if a brandy could be made from Jerez grapes.
Grupo Estévez
is hatching a plan to do just that and is looking for trade support in the
creation of a distillery. They have set aside a considerable quantity of Jerez wine
from 2014 for distillation into a Solera Reserva brandy with plans to later
produce a Solera Gran Reserva, and these would provide a market for any excess
production.
There
exists already the occasional 100% Jerez brandy, but Estévez wants to go a step
further by certifying the use of 100% Palomino grapes qualified for Sherry
production which will be traceable. According to José Ramón Estévez, group
president, this initiative means that, like Cognac for example, every drop in
the bottle would come from within the Denominación de Origen and would have the
fingerprint of the vineyards of Jerez.
Jose Ramon Estevez (foto:diariodejerez) |
This fits
in with the Estévez philosophy of putting more value back into the vineyards,
dealing with any over-production and guaranteeing the growers a sale for their
grapes. However, with the reduction in vineyard a balance was achieved between
production and sales, and bodegas have been able to reduce stocks considerably:
from 1.2 million butts down to just under 300,000 in recent years. Indeed, some
bodegas have not bought any grapes in the last 4 or 5 years, but will need to do
so soon making excess production unlikely. This situation is likely to see
increases in grape prices.
The brandy
business needs to focus on quality, especially as many cheaper brands no longer
have the support of the Consejo as they not only reduced the strength to below
the minimum of 36%/vol, but blended in non-grape spirit. Estévez want to build
a communal distillery – a first for Jerez – which would make quality spirit,
100% Jerez, and reduce costs. Currently the costs of producing spirit in La
Mancha are rising due to more expensive grapes and transport, fiscal pressure and a reduction
in EU grants, and demand is falling. Estévez therefore believes that this is
the right moment to build a distillery and restore quality and value to JEREZ
brandy.
No comments:
Post a Comment