José Manuel Bustillo Barroso, known to his
friends as “El Busti”, comes from a long line of vine growers in the Marco de
Jerez where he was born in a vineyard and has lived in one ever since. For much
of his life he was a capataz de viña, or vineyard manager for one of the big
Sherry firms as well as working with the Rancho La Merced, the research and
training institute of the Junta de Andalucía, all the while looking after the
family vineyard. He has also been working on wine tourism with Spirit Sherry
and helping oenology students with vineyard visits. Now “pre-retired”, he has
been devoting more of his knowledge and experience to his dream: making his own
wines.
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| Vina La Zarzuela (foto:tripadvisor) |
He owns the Viña La Zarzuela a 4 hectare
vineyard in the pago La Zarzuela between the famous pagos of Balbaina and Añina,
not far from Las Tablas which borders on the Las Conchas vineyard of Williams
& Humbert. The vines are planted half way up a gentle slope which faces
west giving it good exposure to the Poniente winds. It is mostly planted with
Palomino but there remain a few old varieties: Perruno, Castellano, Mantua
Pilas, Barcelonés, Cañocazo, even red varieties. Some believe it was these old
varieties which propitiated the appearance of Palo Cortado. José Manuel sells most
of his Palomino grapes to Williams and Humbert and has fun with the rest.
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| Jose Manuel Bustillo |
Anyway, El Busti produces tiny quantities of
wine including a Palo Cortado, but it is mostly for the use of family and
friends. A very little Palo Cortado Viña la Zarzuela is bottled by the online
wine shop La Tintoreria under their “El Marginal” label. The grapes are sunned
for 3-4 days in the almijar, or yard, outside the vineyard house and only mosto
yema – the first pressing – is used. The wine is not subjected to any treatment
whatsoever, even fortification. It is an añada of some 20 years of age and
bottled en rama with a wax capsule. Needless to say it is hard to find but
worth the effort.
Address: Autovia A-480 Jerez-Sanlúcar, salida 21, carretera hacia
Las Tablas
Telephone: 625705236
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