Lost Bodegas: JM Rivero

The history of this firm goes back to the XVII century. The Rivero family has documents going back to 1653, showing that Pedro Alonso Cabeza de Aranda y Zarco was already in the wine business. His initials CZ were to become the first ever Sherry brand name, though they were also used to brand the fine horses and cattle he bred on his property.

Pedro Alonso was succeeded by his son Antonio Cabeza de Aranda y Guzman, who was ennobled in 1755 as Marques de Montana. He ran the business along with Francisco Antonio de la Tixera, and the business was renamed Cabeza y Tixera. The latter continued to run the business after the death of Antonio Cabeza.

During this period, their wines were very highly regarded. They received a letter in 1757 from one Nicolas Anso of Cadiz saying please, “por Dios y mi dinero” (in the name of God and my money) would they do him the honour of sending him a butt of their wine. At the time of the battle of Trafalgar, a cargo of Sherry was captured and auctioned off in Tarifa. The Riveros eventually got it back and used it to create a solera called Trafalgar 1805.

A view of the bodega with its legendary vine (foto:centrodedocumentacion.vivancoculturadelvino.es)

The firm was very successful through the XIX century and in 1855 had 3,188 butts in bodegas in four streets; Antona de Dios, Valientes; Clavel and Roa la Bota (now disappeared) where some of the oldest and finest Sherries were stored. In Calle Antona de Dios there was an old vine of the Beba variety with a trunk 50 cm in diameter, and which was said to be 300 years old.

Vina del Barco in the pago Macharnudo

When Francisco died, the firm passed to his daughter and her husband Joaquin Maria Rivero y Gonzalez. In 1895 the trading name of the firm was changed to JM Rivero y Cia. The managing partners were Tomas and Federico Rivero O’Neale, father and uncle respectively of the next Joaquin Maria Rivero. King Alfonso XIII of Spain asked him in 1906 to visit the British king Edward VII to try and sell more Sherry, which he did. The king’s butler was obviously impressed with the wine he sold to the palace, writing later in appreciation. The firm had royal warrants with the royal households of both Spain and Portugal.

Joaquin Maria ran the firm till the end, which came when the bodegas were sold in 1991. The famous CZ trademark expired in 1994. Apparently Rivero was sold to Aceite Carbonell in Cordoba and later to Antonio Nuñez. Interestingly, his descendent, Joaquin Rivero Valcarce who is a construction billionaire, set up Bodegas Tradicion.

The Wines:
Solera Caveza 1770 (a tiny 100 arroba (1 arroba is roughly 16 litres) solera)
Marques de Montana Solera Tixera  1783
Trafalgar 1805 (a 2 bottle lot sold for £792 at Christies in 1999)
PX del Carnero
Moscatel Menudo
Finos Viña del Barco, Mantecoso
Viejo Oloroso CZ
Carrascal Cream
Brandies Montesion, Corregidor
among many others...