Bodegas: Almocaden

The story goes back to the end of the XIX century, but full bodega business began in 1915 when Don Jose Gonzalez Granados established his vineyards at Mesas de Asta, a village just outside Jerez where there are remains of an ancient Phenecian settlement called Asta Regia. Don Jose was a son of the soil and his wines bore the mark of the vineyard. 

Juan Gonzalez Sillero, his son, continued his father’s work, dedicating his life to the artisanal production of Sherry. He was a good businessman and felt it was better to have bodegas in Jerez, so he bought the old Rivelot factory which made bottle closures and tin cans, where he stored his stocks of wine. This building, bought in 1982, is in the old centre of Jerez, in the Calle Jardinillo in the heart of the neighbourhood of Santiago. At the entrance to the bodega is a notice which reads: “Please do not smoke. Your health will thank you for it. A glass of Fino Paquiro will be better for you. Thank you.”

Juan in turn left the business to his two sons, Jose and Juan Gonzalez Salguero, who continue the business today in the same artesanal spirit, along with the fourth generation, and not much has changed since Juan's days. Times have changed, however, and many bodegas have been lost, but a handful of small bodegas, mostly family owned, have survived without losing their essence.

The firm owns 40 ha of vineyards at Almocaden, situated between the legendary pagos of Carrascal and Macharnudo, on albariza soil and planted to Palomino. There are three vineyards: Matamoros, San Rafael and Matamoros Chico. "Almocaden" is an old arabic word for the captain of the troops who watch over the vines, something Jose certainly did.

(foto:DiarioJerez)

The bodega even has a dog, a perro ratonero bodeguero called “Solera.” This is a Spanish breed of dog resembling a terrier, which is good at hunting down rats and mice in bodegas. It is recognised as a breed by Spain’s equivalent of the Kennel Club, the Real Sociedad Canina de Espana. If you have ever seen the superstar mice at Gonzalez Byass, you will know that they don’t have such a dog!

Wines:

Almocaden (top) Range: Amontillado (@25years old),Oloroso, Cream, PX

Caletero Range: Amontillado, Oloroso, Cream, PX

Fino Paquiro (named after an early bullfighter who invented some of the techniques),
Manzanilla La Caletera

Also: very good Vinegar and Brandy

Visits:  Yes but call first.

Address Jardinillo, 16, 11404 Jerez, Cadiz

Tel: 956 185 324

Web: www. bodegasalmocaden.com