Friday 8 June 2012

Tio Pepe Fino en Rama 15%, Bodegas Gonzalez Byass



Appearance
Rather deeper colour than normal Tio Pepe, mid strawy gold, and not as bright (due to lack of fining and filtration, legs.
Nose
Has a certain intensity and depth, less "punzante" (sharp in attack) than normal Tio Pepe and more complex. Quite broad with very slightly floral notes eg camomile, perhaps less saline, but no lack of Flor. Beautiful.
Palate
Quite full with a gentle tang despite low acidity, very dry and full flavoured, quite savoury - almost to the point of trace yeast autolysis, hints of membrillo (quince) and palomino fruit with slightest hint of oxidation. Flavour lingers on the palate leaving a dry sensation - and the strong desire for another glass!
Comments
This 3rd edition of Tio Pepe en Rama, drawn in Spring when the Flor is thickest, commemorates the 200th anniversary of the birth of the founder Manuel Maria Gonzalez Angel. It comes from a selection of butts from the 4 oldest fino soleras known as "the casks of great aroma", the best of which Manuel Maria used to mark with a chalk star. The wine is sold as it once used to be: direct from the cask without fining nor filtration. (Though these operations provide better stability, they do remove some of the wine's subtlety and intensity). En Rama wines should be enjoyed within about 3 months of bottling, so don't waste a minute in obtaining yours!

I tasted the normal Tio Pepe alongside the En Rama, and they are like chalk and cheese. Normal TP has very little flavour or subtlety after the En Rama, yet is lovely beforehand, so one can see how much is lost in fining and filtration. Also the En Rama was from a specially selected limited range of casks, as opposed to hundreds. It just shows how good Sherry must have been before technology took over.
Price About £15-16 - And worth every penny!


1 comment:

  1. Paula: you are a inspiration. Please come back. I´d love to know your opinion in Cardenal de Mendoza Nebulis Brandy and the new things in Jerez.

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