Sunday, 9 June 2019
Vino Blanco Cañada del Taraje 2018 11.5%, Almazara del Manzanillo
Mid to pale strawy gold with golden glints and a slight trace of residual CO₂ which goes.
On the full side, good and ripe, perhaps a hint of extended skin contact, quite sophisticated and very faintly nutty with traces of dried or glaҫé fruit like apricot, mango and quince. There is also a slight honeysuckle-like sweet floral note.
There is real character here; good ripeness has left a lowish level of acidity which helps bring out the flavour of the grape which has that very slight nuttiness and an almost honeyed note. Despite the grape´s comparatively low sugar levels, this example has just a trace of residual sugar, bu also just enough acidity to balance it giving an exceptionally clean, dry and reasonably long finish.
This delicious wine is produced in very small quantities (1,200 bottles) in the Cañada del Taraje vineyard in Olvera among the olive trees near Zahara de la Sierra, at the northern tip of the Sierra de Grazalema in the northeastern part of the province of Cádiz. It is made up in the hills from the organically grown Perruno grape which is indigenous to the area, and though some was allowed for Sherry in the past, it has largely disappeared in favour of Palomino. It is a comparatively late ripener with thicker skins than some varieties and lowish sugar levels but is capable of producing good wine if yields are kept low and care is taken as it has here. Almazara is an old arab word for olive mill, and olive oil is the main business here (the excellent Oleum Viride), but it would be silly not to make wine if you can, and they also make the really good Fine Tempo (QV). No additives, filtration or any of that nonsense, just totally natural.
7.90 euros, Licores Corredera