Sunday, 16 June 2019
Mahara Espumoso Espátula 2017 11.9%, Bodega Vinifícate
Light amber with golden highlights and good mousse with occasional bead.
Quite full with pronounced aromas of apple and apple skin, even a hint of cider, traces of apricot and ripe grapes, and while it is quite zippy with a stoney minerality, there is also a faint creamy quince jelly note in the background. It is most unusual but very attractive and completely natural.
There is some real character here and a degree of intensity with almost crunchy apples, a refreshing tangy acidity and a touch of apple skin texture giving just a hint of tannin thanks to fermenting on the skins. It is very dry with a slightly saline mineral tang with a long, very clean finish.
Bodega Vinifícate, or Mahara Viticultores as they are also knowm, really seem to be taking off. The Gómez Lucas brothers based in San Fernando are producing all sorts of interesting wines using interesting methods and the new wines are labelled with illustrations of local birds and fish. This is one only 420 bottles of this lovely sparkling wine made by the ancestral method by which the fermentation is completed in bottle. The Palomino grapes, which were hand picked, came from 70 year old vines in a small vineyard in the pago Mahina near Sanlúcar, the Viña del Vicario. They were de-stemmed and macerated in a fibre-glass tank for a week (hence the deeper colour) before pressing in a vertical press and left to ferment. The progress of the fermentation needs to be carefully observed so as to be able to bottle at the right moment. No sulphites were added and no filtration was done. The wine was aged in bottle for 16 months before sale. Espátula is a bird called a spoonbill in English.
Price17.15 euros, Licores Corredera