Friday, 26 June 2015
Manzanilla en Rama I Think 15% Saca Abril 2012, Equipo Navazos
Deepish strawy brassy gold, almost perfectly bright with some legs.
Intense Sanlúcar character: salty and briny with strong flor notes and a trace of oxidation and that smell from rope used to tie up fishing boats, dry scrubland that has just seen a little rain, a trace of olives, autolysis, yeasty sourdough, but overall very maritime. This is full-on and wildly attractive.
Full, it has quite a tang as well as lots of flor bitterness, salty and yeasty, and despite that trace of oxidation , the oleic note and a hint of autolysis it tastes very fresh. It is a beautifully constituted wine bursting with character and has terrific length. Fine seafood deserves no less.
Manzanillas and Finos tend to be drawn from the solera in spring or autumn, when the flor is thicker. This is a spring 2012 bottling of I Think with 4 ½ years average age in the La Guita solera. It is a wine that demonstrates really well how much character is lost through stabilisation. For fun, try it alongside a glass of normal La Guita, and you’ll see the difference. This was the second release and was only exported to the UK, USA and Australia, each of which received about a third of this bottling of around 5,000 half bottles.
Around £ 10.00 from Drinkmonger Edinburgh. UK distributor is Alliance Wine