Sunday, 21 June 2015

Manzanilla en Rama I Think 15%, Equipo Navazos, saca de Octubre 2010 (Retaste)

Quite deep, almost Amontillado colour with slight tones of unpolished brass, legs
Powerful saline flor, quite bitter with hints of dry scrub and a distinct oxidative note which merges with savoury hints of autolysis, and a slight nutty almost oily note to offer amazing complexity. Deep, full and evolved.
Intense, round, rich and complex starting with that oxidative note then clean and fine with the flor coming through along with the nutty oxidative note. There is a fascinating interplay between intensity and mellowness in this superb wine. It is not as racy as a more recently bottled wine but so many facets have harmonised with extra bottle age.
It was fantastic to taste this wine again with three years more bottle age. For its 4 ½ years of average solera age it is amazing. So many labels of Finos and Manzanillas, especially en rama bottlings, state that they should be consumed as soon as possible for maximum freshness, but this wine shows that they can and do improve, evolve, develop, even change in bottle. What is lost in freshness is gained in mellow complexity and richness, especially with en rama bottlings which have less taken out. After 56 months in bottle this wine which comes from La Guita has lost nothing and gained much, which demonstrates just how well Finos and Manzanillas can age in bottle – in proper conditions.
About £ 11.00 per half bottle from Drinkmonger Edinburgh

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