Monday, 15 December 2014

Oloroso VORS 1/14 22%, Bodegas Maestro Sierra

Deep amber fading to yellow with a hint of green at the rim, looks really old, legs.
Full, pungent and nutty. There is a great complexity here with  slightly bitter hints of walnut but also lots of toasted almond and hazelnut and a touch of old wood with slight varnishy traces. Then there are hints of raisin giving a suspicion of roundness, but not enough to make the wine any less dry. I think it just might have been teaspooned, which is all to the good as these very old wines can be a little astringent otherwise.
Big and powerful with a noticeable tang of acidity which keeps it fresh, and a trace of sweetness confirming that it may have been teaspooned. Acidity, trace sweetness and also a hint of walnutty woody bitterness give an almost bitter-sweet effect compounded by good grip and terrific length. A superb old oloroso with real character and vivacity.
This Fantastic wine comes from a small solera of just 14 butts, through which it has taken over 50 years (according to the bodega website) or 60 years (according to Peter Liem) or 70 years (according to what I was told by bodega staff at Vinoble) to arrive. Suffice to say it is very old - and they have another (the Extra Viejo 1/7) which is even older. Sold in very limited quantities of some 400 hand filled and labelled bottles a year, this is hard to get hold of, but well worth the effort.
Somewhere around £150 per bottle - there may be halves - from UK agents Indigo Wine

(Foto Migue Zayas/Maestro Sierra)

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