7.4.19 New Chief Oenologist at Fundador

Bodegas Fundador have announced the appointment of Antonio Florido as the firm´s director of oenology. He takes over the role from Manuel José Valcárcel who joined what was then Domecq in 1984 as a microbiologist. He now becomes director of research and development. With a degree in chemistry and oenology from the University of Cádiz, Antonio Florido has ten years of experience in the firm where he has fulfilled various roles in oenology, laboratories and production, and now he will be responsible for vineyards, production and ageing bodegas and laboratories. With his experience in the firm, he is in a good position to be in charge of quality control of the Harveys Sherries and the brandies Fundador, Terry and Tres Cepas.

The Classic Pagos of the Marco de Jerez: Mahina

Also spelled “Maina”, this fine pago is thought to have been named in antiquity for the resemblance of its peninsular or island-like appearance to one of the same name in Greece. This area was once part of the Tartessian kingdom which had trading links to Greece among other places. Extending to some 170 hectares, Mahina lies east and just a little south of Sanlúcar at around 15 kilometres from the Guadalquivir estuary, and is almost surrounded by river marshes. The lie of the land makes it susceptible to the Levante wind which the ever encroaching wind turbines take advantage of. Over the centuries small caves have appeared where silica soil has been mined for pot making. 

The soil here is probably the purest and deepest albariza of the entire region with a lower limestone content but a very high diatomaceous silica content – up to 80% in places - which makes it very white. That, along with its amazing capacity for water retention means it produces very high quality Palomino fruit and sapid muscular musts which produce fine Finos, Manzanillas and Amontillados. There are also patches of tosca barajuela and a bit more clay towards the east of the pago which has a very low content of organic matter. 

Viña La Charanga

Of the 153 vineyards in the pago the four most famous are Neva, Lacave, Vicario and La Charanga. Grapes from Viña La Charanga, owned by “El Bolli”, are used by Alba Viticultores (La Charanga), Ramiro Ibáñez (Ube Maina) and also Antonio Bernal (Corta y Raspa). What was once Manuel García Monge´s vineyard El Maestre with its handsome casa de viña is here too but the building is now a wedding venue. Vinifícate also buy Mahina grapes for their Mahara wine. 

Viña El Maestre in Manuel Garcia Monge´s day

5.4.19 Sandeman Wins "Don" Trademark Case

Sandeman, owned by the Portuguese firm Sogrape, has won a trademark registration case against one of Scotland´s leading football clubs, Aberdeen FC known locally as “the Dons” (short for “Aberdonians”). The club had applied to register two trademarks at the UK Intellectual Property Office for an own label blended whisky, “Dons Dram” and “the Dons Dram” which would be produced for them by a local distillery, but Sandeman objected to the word “Don”. Their famous logo, known affectionately as “the Don” was designed in 1928 and registered in 1935 with the brand “Don Fino” being registered in 1960 and there was also "Dry Don" so the firm felt the similarity between the trademarks could cause consumer confusion. Aberdeen FC argued that the club had been known as “the Dons” for over a century but the IPO ruled in Sandeman´s favor since it is a worldwide brand and nobody outside Scotland would be likely to have Heard of “the Dons”.

4.4.19 Dates Announced for International Sherry Week

It´s time to make a note in your diary. International Sherry Week will take place this year between the 4th - 10th November. Join the celebrations in over 30 countries where bars, restaurants, wine merchants and private households will be creating tastings, cocktails and pairing menus safe in the knowledge that there is not a single dish anywhere which cannot be paired with this unique and highly versatile wine we call Sherry. Since the first event in 2014, Sherry Week has seen continual growth, and last year there were over 2,000 events all over the world, showing just what a multicultural wine it is. Inscriptions for events will open on the 13th May at www.sherryweek.wine. 

Brandy Tres Cepas Solera 36%, Pedro Domecq

Appearance

Lightish amber with bright golden highlights.

Nose

On the light side, fresh with a certain crispness due to a notable content of column still spirit, slight hints of Oloroso and oak barrels. It is fairly basic brandy but very much Jerez nonetheless. There are traces of brown sugar, caramel and very faint rancio and dried fruit notes.

Palate

Light and fairly crisp at first then it opens out a little giving off  a certain lightly caramel sweetness with mild Sherry and faint oak notes which leave a faint hint of tannin. It is not particularly sophisticated yet there is nothing wrong with it and it is remarkably easy to drink on its own and is ideal for cocktails and mixed drinks.

Comments

This brandy was introduced in 1902 and distilled from Airén grapes at Domecq´s own distillery in Tomelloso, La Mancha. It probably consists of not much more than the required 50% holandas with the rest coming from column stills and was aged in solera using butts previously seasoned with Oloroso and has a probable average age of about a year. It was not terribly different to Fundador though perhaps slightly inferior yet it sold in huge quantities mainly in export markets. "Tres Cepas" translates as "three vines" and shouldn´t be confused with Tres Copas (three goblets) from González Byass. Both have long disappeared from the Spanish market but Tres Cepas is available in Equatorial Guinea, the Philippines (a huge brandy market) and parts of Latin America, though completely re-packaged and labelled as "light". The policy of current brand owner Emperador seems to be to make as many versions as possible of their well known brands - there are now 11 versions of Fundador!

Price

20 euros per litre, Mantequería Jerezana

 

Tinto García de la Jara 2017 12.5%, Hermanas García Saborido

Appearance

Dense, opaque black with very tight young purple rim with a hint of ruby.

Nose

Still a little closed but lots of attractive fresh ripe slightly fleshy black berry fruit and a slightly salty coastal air. The oak is barely noticeable but its softening oxidative effect is, and there are faint spice and balsamic notes giving a moderate complexity which can only increase over time.

Palate

Full bodied with a solid structure and while there is noticeable tannin it is ripe and not at all aggressive. Gently tangy acidity is perfectly balanced with the sweetness of the ripe fruit and there is a distinct salty note which gives more of a dry feel than the tannin. Long clean finish.

Comments

The García Saborido family has worked its vineyard, only 300 metres from the beach in Sanlúcar and with sandy chalky soil, for decades and it was the younger members of the family, Carmen, Rocío and Martín who decided to make a good red wine - the first and only from Sanlúcar. The hat on the label is a homage to their grandfather who originally planted the vineyard which is farmed organically has a little orchard/vegetable patch alongside.The wine is made mostly from Petit Verdot with a hint of Tannat, Merlot, Syrah and a few old local varieties. The grapes are hand picked, selected and fermented in tank before three months ageing in used French oak. This is a classic red meat wine, delicious and interesting, but needs a year or two more in bottle to open out fully. Great value for money.

Price

7.95 euros, De Albariza

Manzanilla Pasada Solear en rama 15% Invierno 2017, Barbadillo (Retaste)

Appearance

Bright amber tinged gold, a fraction deeper than a year ago, golden highlights.

Nose

Forthcoming and complex with just the very faintest hint of oxidation which blends in perfectly with the autolytic notes from the cabezuela and there is a little less bitter almondy flor bite but plenty of yeastiness. The wine is full and rich and further integrated, smooth and harmonious and more complex still.

Palate

Again super smooth with even a fleeting trace of an almost honeyed sweetness but that soon passes as the acidity asserts itself - gently, but enough to carry through all that flavour and provide impeccable balance. There are notes of bread dough, almond, olive brine and esparto but they are harder to distinguish now than they were a year ago, though they are still there, all playing a role in the wine´s impressive complexity and length.

Comments

There are pretty obvious differences between this bottle and the one tasted a year ago. It is now much rounder and smoother with less acidic bite and bitter flor but more depth and complexity revealing how well it ages. In fact it is in perfect health and will go on for years a few more years yet. The wine now has about 8 years in solera and around 14 months in bottle.

Price

14.30 per half bottle, Licores Corredera