The Palmas from Gonzalez Byass

I've just posted my tasting notes on the four Palma wines released by Gonzalez Byass last November, and I'm hoping very much to be able to afford to buy the 2012 releases... Quite apart from being excellent and interesting wines, they represent an exciting innovation on the marketplace, for which GB must be heartily congratulated. It is only Sherries of real quality which can carry the standard for Jerez, and these are certainly  fine examples which show emphatically just how good and how unique Sherry is.

What is most interesting is that one can study the wine's metamorphosis from a six year-old Fino through to a forty-five year-old Amontillado, observing all the subtle changes that happen. The wines are selected from the solera, 1st criadera, 2nd criadera and 3rd criadera, showing one what is happening inside the butts themselves. All the dead yeast cells on the bottom of the butts start to add autolytic nuances to the Fino - those traces of Marmite - which, with the bitter almondy Flor aromas give Finos their identity. This simply becomes more concentrated and complex over time. By ten years the Flor has started to die off, the oxidative process has begun, and levels of glycerol, acidity and alcohol slowly rise as there is no longer any Flor to consume them. Oxidation and age add further nuances, as does the fact that the wines are bottled "en rama" and have thus lost nothing in the way of flavour and aroma which stabilisation causes. Seek out these wines, buy them if you can - or share costs with friends - but whatever you do, you must try them!

15.12.12 2013 Harvest; New Palmas from Gonzalez Byass

Bodegas take steps toward next harvest.

The bodegas are already worried about next year’s harvest which could be another small one – though probably a bit bigger - despite the recent heavy rainfall. The effects of the severe 2012 drought include a weakening of the vines’ branches which will reduce yields. There are worries that with a slight increase in sales there will not be enough wine to replace stocks, according to Francisco Guerrero, president of the independent growers Asevi-Asaja. The bodegas are looking to sign contracts with the few growers not already contracted in order to ensure grape supply. Prices are on the increase as a result with 3 year contract prices increasing each year in an attempt to give the growers a living without increasing Sherry prices excessively.

GB launch new range of Palmas

The new wines were presented by Antonio Flores the bodega’s enologist in Madrid yesterday. The wines are Finos of considerable age with particularly fine and delicate aromas, awarded Palmas (cask markings) according to age. The term Palma is hardly used any more, but GB resuscitated it for the recent 175^th anniversary of Tio Pepe. Expert tasters along with GB people have selected the best 4 wines from over 150 chosen butts from the numerous Tio Pepe soleras.

The wines show the path followed by the wine as it slowly loses the flor and becomes Amontillado, ranging from approximately 6 – 45 years of age. Needless to say, these 4 bottles are in extremely limited supply, and all four will cost you around £120. Money well spent, especially for those who are REALLY interested in Sherry.