29.4.17 New Lustau Amontillado for Aponiente

The Castillo de San Marcos in El Puerto de Santa María was the location for the official introduction of the latest joint Project between Lustau and the restaurant Aponiente owned by the “chef of the sea” Ángel León. Amontillado en rama Yodo joins the Fino Yodo introduced a few months ago. Sergio Martínez, oenologist at Lustau, explained that this textbook Amontillado is the natural evolution of the Fino, it retains the essence of a Fino from El Puerto and its maritime air, yet has many years of ageing statically. Only 1,000 bottles have been released, all of them for Aponiente.

More interesting news snippets: While an endless stream of bikers arrives for the Moto GP which takes place in Jerez next weekend, the first Sherry Marathon takes place tomorrow. Recent heavy rain won’t help the 600 runners negotiate the muddy country stretch of the race, but at least it is what the farmers and vine growers were hoping for after near drought conditions. At least it won’t be too hot, and anyway Jerez is not short of refreshment! A baby leopard has been born at Jerez zoo, while in Sanlúcar the navy has been busy dealing with an unexploded World War II mine caught by fishermen. The touring Sherry Festival will be in San Sebastián between the 5-14 May and there will as usual be many extramural events.

Almacenistas

The word comes from Arabic into the Spanish “almacén”: a store or warehouse. An Almacenista, obviously, is one who runs it; a warehouse keeper. The words can be applied to the storage of anything, but in Jerez, why would you store anything other than Sherry?!

In the past, when Sherry was a much bigger business than now, there were many more producers, and only the big firms had international – or even national market penetration. The only market for small producers was other, bigger bodegas. It suited both parties well enough, however, as the big bodegas could concentrate on their markets and the small bodegas could avoid having to learn about marketing in other languages, and concentrate on making wine, with a virtually guaranteed market for it.

At one time there were over 130 Almacenistas, but as time went by, and they could see the value of marketing their own wines, some converted to shipping bodegas. Some of the big firms, meanwhile had been building stocks and no longer needed the Almacenistas. As Sherry sales slumped, some simply sold up.

Nowadays the Almacenistas are usually small family firms, who are connected directly or indirectly to the wine trade. They may be small vineyard holders who make their own wine, or they may be business people or just investors who, for the sheer love of Sherry buy wines in and operate small, often very high quality soleras of their own. The produce of these soleras has traditionally been sold to the shipping bodegas who used it to improve their soleras or for blending.

Few Sherry lovers ever got to taste these magnificent wines until Lustau’s MD, Rafael Balao, decided in 1981 to bottle and market them just as they were: the product of a single very small solera. It is worth noting that Lustau themselves began as Almacenistas. For the first time, the Almacenistas’ names were on labels, along with the very small number of butts in the solera. Lustau marketed wines from no fewer than 21 Almacenistas back in the 1980s, but currently from just 6 due to a change in the regulations mentioned later. These wines are necessarily expensive, but of such fine quality that they sell very well, being virtually the only examples of Almacenista wines commercially available.

Under the Reglamento – or rules – of the Consejo Regulador, there are three categories of Sherry producer:

Bodegas de Crianza y Expedición:

These are the shippers, bodegas who sometimes make and always age and market wine. Currently there are 42 of them, including all the big names and some cooperatives. They must be situated within the Zona de Crianza - that is in one of the three towns which form the Sherry Triangle where wines must be aged: Jerez, Sanlúcar and El Puerto de Santa María.

Bodegas de Crianza y Almacenado:

Bodegas who make and mature wine, including cooperatives and those Almacenistas with stock of less than 500 hectolitres and do not commercialise wine. They must be located in the Zona de Crianza and at the moment they number 9.

Bodegas de Producción:

These are bodegas and cooperatives located inside the production zone but outside the Zona de Crianza. They can sell bottled wine on the open market quoting its place of origin but without the Denominación de Origen Sherry. Currently there are eight of them.

Until 1996, bodegas with stock of less than 12,500 hectolitres were not granted a shipping licence but the Consejo changed the rules, reducing the minimum to 500 hectolitres (or 100 butts), allowing many small producers to bottle, commercialise and export their own wines, thus remaining “Almacenistas” and becoming Bodegas de Crianza y Expedición as well.  Most have no bottling or stabilisation equipment, so their wines are contract bottled.

Quite a few Almacenistas converted to shipping bodegas (albeit small ones) after 1996. One famous Almacenista, Pilar Aranda, the first bodega to join the Consejo in 1933, was bought out by Álvaro Domecq in 1998, and is now known as Bodegas Álvaro Domecq. The bodega no longer sells Almacenista wine, just very good Sherry. The bodega known as El Maestro Sierra, owned by Pilar Pla Pechovierto and her daughter María del Carmen Borrego Pla also once supplied Lustau with fine Oloroso (Viuda de Antonio Borrego), but now market their wines themselves. Another is Gaspar Florido founded in 1880 in Sanlúcar, and bought by Pedro Romero in 2007.

Almacenistas currently used by Lustau:

Manuel Cuevas Jurado (Sanlúcar) In 1950 Manuel Cuevas Jurado, who ran a wholesale grocery business and owned vineyards in Miraflores near Sanlucar bought a very small  bodega established in 1889 as Nuestra Senora del Pilar. Today his son Manuel Cuevas Galvez runs the business which consists of various soleras totalling over 2,000 butts, mostly Manzanilla of various ages. They supply Lustau with Manzanilla Pasada de Sanlúcar, over 7 years old (80 butts), and a rare and fantastic Manzanilla Amontillada de Sanlúcar (21 butts) of more than double that age.

Juan Antonio Garcia Jarana (Jerez) The owner of a very successful motorcycle dealership in Jerez, he started by buying a small bodega in 1979, where he makes very fine wines, many of which are used as gifts to friends and business associates. Lustau buy two of his wines: Amontillado de Jerez (51 butts), and Oloroso Pata de Gallina (38 butts). The bodega contains about 700 butts of Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso Viejo and very old PX.

José Luis González Obregón (El Puerto) This bodega was founded in 1935, markets its own wine brands and, since the 1950s has owned a bar in the actual bodega, and another nearby. Their food is famous. They currently supply Lustau with Fino del Puerto (143 butts), Amontillado del Puerto (10 butts) and Oloroso del Puerto (110 butts). {See separate post}

José de la Cuesta (El Puerto) La Cuesta was established in 1849. They took over the firm of John William Burdon, who died without issue, and in 1932 were bought by Bodegas Luis Caballero, who also, incidentally own Lustau. La Cuesta used to market their own brands, such as the Troubadour range, but these disappeared years ago. It would appear that their soleras are still being used as a sort of Almacenista supply to Lustau. Anyway, Lustau market a Fino del Puerto from a solera of 183 butts. {See separate post}

Miguel Montádez Florido (Jerez) Miguel is in fact, a pharmacist, but owns a small bodega behind his pharmacy from which he supplies Lustau with two wines: Amontillado de Jerez (30 butts) and an Amontillado Fino de Jerez (47 butts) which is exquisite.

Vides (Jerez) Established in 1958 by Tomás Domecq Rivero in the Barrio Santiago, this firm is now run by grandson Fernando León Manjón. They own the Esparto vineyard in Carrascal and make their own wine. They supply Lustau with a lovely Palo Cortado averaging 20 years old.

Rosario Benitez Giron (Jerez) Once supplied a 30 year old Amontillado (1/2)

Some other Almacenistas:

Ángel Zamorano (Jerez) Ángel, a businessman with interests in petrol stations, business management and horses, bought a small bodega in 1974, which now extends to some 700 butts. He has sold wine to Domecq and Lustau, and used the bodega to entertain family and business associates. He worries, however, that his children will not continue the bodega.

Ángel del Río (Sanlúcar) Ángel was studying chemical engineering abroad when his father died. He had been a winemaker selling mosto to bodegas. In around 1990, Ángel decided to become an Almacenista and bought a bodega right at the shore, next to the shipyards. It contains 1,139 butts, mostly of chestnut as he found oak hard to get and expensive. His wines are Manzanilla, Amontillado and Oloroso. He is finding the current position very difficult and is thinking of opening a restaurant-bodega serving wine direct from the butt, or just selling up.

César Florido (Chipiona) Part Almacenista and part shipper, this old bodega (1890), is one of the three remaining of 83 in the heydays. It specialises in Moscatel, as is the local way. They sell it to Romate and Caballero among others, and market a range of styles under their own label. The Moscatel is lovely! {See separate post}

Gaspar Florido (Sanlúcar) Established in 1942, the bodega sold its wine from very old soleras to the trade. In 1997, the 4^th generation, Eduardo Cotro Florido decided to bottle the wines, as he realised their enormous value. This he did with enormous confidence in his very old Amontillados and Olorosos. Being an Almacenista had condemned the bodega to obscurity, and he knew he’d have to use clever tactics. So he introduced a beautiful, very old Amontillado called 25GF which sold in limited quantities at an exorbitant price. It worked: the whole world took notice. The firm was bought out by Pedro Romero in 2007. {See separate post}

Cayetano del Pino (Jerez) This small firm was established in 1866 by Don Cayetano del Pino y Vázquez in the Plaza Cocheras, 3, where they were visited by King Alfonso XIII in 1904. They are now to be found at Plaza Silos, 3. While they are registered with the Consejo as bodegas de Crianza y Expedición, they are also still almacenistas. They currently offer a 15 year old Palo Cortado, a Palo Cortado Viejísimo at about 30 years old from a 5 butt solera, and the Fino Perdido 8 years old, all bottled by Sánchez Romate, but they make other wines. {See separate post}

Bodegas Arfe (Jerez) The original bodega dates from 1767 and contains some 200 butts and occasional small releases for a members-only Club Arfe. They have now released a superb Palo Cortado de la Cruz de 1767 for general sale, but in very small quantities.

Viña Callejuela (Sanlúcar) Famous for the first vintage Manzanilla {See separate post} and suppliers of mostos to Juan Pinero among others

Destiladores y Bodegueros (Jerez) Established in 1987 and the only almacenista with a cooperage, close to Fernando de Castilla.

José Alberto San Román (Jerez) Situated in the Viña Halcón in Balbaina. Some good wine.

José y Miguel Martín (Jerez) Have a lot of Oloroso and some is used for seasoning Whisky casks.

Mercedes Márquez Gómez e Hijos (Jerez) Small family bodega.

Bodega Santa Petronila (Jerez) Located in an old casa de viña in the Macharnudo surrounded by vines, this is probably the smallest bodega in Jerez. {see separate post}

29.6.16 More Medals for Sherry; Lustau Appoint New Oenologist; Goya XL

The XXII edition of the Premios Mezquita which takes place annually in Córdoba has rewarded the Sherry bodegas with lots of medals.  Diez Mérito won a Mezquita Grand Gold for Fino Imperial and Gold for the PX VORS while the firm’s Bertola won gold for the PX, Palo Cortado, Amontillado, Cream and Oloroso, all 12 years old. González Byass also won gold for the Noé, Amontillado del Duque and Tio Pepe en Rama. Meanwhile the Jerez Cooperative La Angustias won gold for its Fino Mira la Mar and silver for the Oloroso, PX and Cream from the same range. Their Romerito range won silver for the Oloroso, Cream and Medium and their excellent Fino sin Pecado also won silver.

At another competition, the Concurso Internacional de Vinos de Atlántico, Bertola PX 12 years old, while at yet another, the Akatavino Top Ten, included 98.5 for Williams & Humbert’s Jalifa and 96 for Dos Cortados. González Byass scored 94 for their Tintilla de Rota, 97.5 for Cuatro Palmas and Tres Palmas. Delgado Zuleta scored 98 for Amontillado Quo Vadis.

After the immensely sad loss of oenologist Manuel Lozano, Lustau have appointed Sergio Martínez in his place. Sergio has already worked for the firm for 13 years and spent 10 of them working daily alongside “Manolo”. Lustau’s director general, Luis Luengo, said that “Sergio has our full support in leading the team. There is no one better to maintain our style and bring new ideas to the project.”

Sergio was born in San Fernando (Cádiz) and spent his childhood among the towns of Cádiz Bay. While passionate about nature, the sea the marvellous local beaches and animals he is also passionate about Sherry and says his favourite style is Amontillado “for its complexity, subtle nuances and elegance thanks to both biological and oxidative ageing which makes it unique.”

Bodegas Delgado Zuleta have released a new saca of their superb Manzanilla Goya XL. It has already received 93 Parker points and gold at the International Wine Challenge and Best Manzanilla. This wine is released extremely rarely, in fact this is only the third ever saca. It comes from an exhaustive selection from 10 butts from the La Goya Solera by oenologist Salvador Real, is over ten years old and bottled en rama. It is an outstanding wine, a true classic, get it if you can. Now.

Salvador Real (R) at the Madrid presentation

3.6.16 Agreement Reached over Sale of Garvey; New Sherry Launches

The Philipino Lucio Tan, owner of Asian Alcohol Corporation, has reached an agreement with the administrators to purchase the ailing bodega group Garvey and Zoilo Ruiz Mateos for between 20-25 million euros. The deal will be signed as soon as the administrator gets back from holiday – any day now, and will put an end to five long years of administration and months of complex negotiations. Lucio Tan is not related to Andrew Tan who recently bought bodegas Fundador.

Representatives of the Asian Alcohol Corporation, whose flagship product is Ron Tanduay – one of the top ten best-selling alcoholic drinks in the world – have been in Jerez to tie up the loose ends of the deal to buy Complejo Bodeguero Bellavista and Bodegas Zoilo Ruiz Mateos known as Grupo Garvey, formerly owned by Nueva Rumasa, as well as the supply and bottling contract for Sandeman and the Cerroviejo vineyard.

Lucio Tan's Representatives with Beltran Domecq at Vinoble (foto:diario jerez)

The trade feels this is the best possible outcome for Garvey which at the time of going into administration was in debt to the tune of over 210 million euros. Then the firm had combined Sherry and brandy stocks of 100,000 butts, but those have now dwindled to 10,000 as stock was sold to cover workers’ salaries and administration costs. Lucio Tan’s purchase came at a critical point – just as Garvey seemed destined for liquidation. Let us hope this magnate, who also owns the main Philipine airline along with interests in banking and tobacco, can turn this famous bodega around and create more badly needed employment.

More new Sherries! Bodegas Lustau will shortly launch a new Sherry, Amontillado Tabanco, which will fit between Fino and older Amontillado. Meanwhile Bodegas Yuste is to launch the Amontillado Conde de Aldama, a wine of at least 100 years of age. I tried it and it is incredible that with such age there are still some Manzanilla characteristics and it is not as tannic as one might have expected. It will be on the market at the end of June. The Cooperativa Virgen del Palomar in Trebujena has launched a small batch Fino en rama made from selected butts.

Conde de Aldama

1.6.16 Vinoble Pays Tribute to Manuel Lozano; The Flor Show No.1

In “Manolo’s” honour, and in the presence of his wife and three children, the mayor of Jerez and other members of the council, not to mention as many members of the wine trade who could squeeze in, Grupo Caballero offered a tasting of all seven wines of the Lustau Almacenista range.

Sergio Martínez, a pupil of Manolo, led the tasting which was full of fond memories of him, his level of skill and professionalism and his great legacy to Sherry, to which he devoted his whole life. Caballero-Lustau’s communication director, Federico Sánchez Pece, and Manuel Arcila, now retired but who also worked all his life at Lustau, and Lustau director general, Luis Luengo, all extolled his virtues, not only as a true professional, but also as a fine human being.

Lustau themselves began as almacenistas, selling finished wines to the big bodegas for their soleras, but now they are buying almacenista wines - the difference is that they are bottling them as they are, with the name of the almacenista on the label. And they are about to launch a new one: a Palo Cortado from Cayetano del Pino, something to look out for.

Another fascinating tasting was “The Flor Show No.1: Jura comes to Jerez”, the brainchild of Jesús Barquín of Equipo Navazos and Juan Manuel Bellver, director of Lavinia España. They led the tasting accompanied by Laurent Courtial, a Jura winemaker. Ten wines, seven from the Jura, were shown, with two Sherries (Fino Antique, Fernando de Castilla and Tio Diego, Valdespino) and a Fino from Montilla. This tasting was the first of a series to be held in various cities such as London, Lyon, Málaga…

Wines produced by crianza biológica (flor) are mostly associated with the Marco de Jerez and Montilla-Moriles in Andalucía, but there is also an outpost of flor in France: the Jura. This tiny wine region to the east of Burgundy and north of Savoie produces various wines but the star is the Château-Chalon, made from Savagnin grapes and aged under flor, and often referred to as “Vin Jaune”- or “Golden Wine” as Louis Pasteur, who came from Jura put it. While there are similarities, there are also differences. Jura wine is sold by vintage and with more focus on the vineyard, unlike the solera system so widely employed in Jerez. In the end, both wines are absolutely fascinating, and congratulations to Jesús and Juan Manuel for coming up with this great idea.

17.7.14 Lustau Oenologist Award; Balbaina Vineyard Walks; Tio Pepe Roundabout

Manuel Lozano has done it yet again! The Lustau oenologist is the winner of the International Wine Challenge best fortified wine maker for no less than the sixth consecutive year.

(Foto +Jerez)

The Historic Patrimony department of El Puerto de Santa Maria council has organised a walk through the rural roads and casas de viña (vineyard houses/presshouses) of the pago Balbaina at 8.00 pm on Friday. The walk of about 8 kilometres will show people their vineyards and their history. It will be repeated on the 22^nd of August. This would be a great tourist attraction.

Work has begun on the new Tio Pepe statue to be erected on a Jerez roundabout. Preliminary works such as cabling and signalling are underway, and the new statue should be in place soon.

Oloroso Anada 1997 Abocado 20.5%, Lustau

Appearance
Mahogany through amber to slightest green tinge at rim, legs.
Nose
Beautifully refined and elegant with that Lustau hallmark note of turron yema tostada. This is not your usual slightly unsubtle Oloroso, it is quite lovely. There is certainly sweetness there, which has been influenced by the wood, but there is little or no pasa (raisin) which you would expect in a sweeter Oloroso. There is a lot of nuttiness though, mainly almond and a touch of walnut, and a hint of brown sugar along with marmalade and some wood.
Palate
Medium to medium sweet with that beautiful grape pulp texture only sweet wines can offer, traces of wood are balanced out by that sublime nutty turron flavour and hints of caramel - even toffee. Marmalade and dates are there, as are dried figs. This is mouthfilling and beautiful, exactly as you would expect from the tech specs, but much better. Delicious!
Comments
Unusual in Jerez, this is a vintage wine, not having gone through a solera. It is only made in outstanding years, and is produced by only partially fermenting the must, thereby retaining much of the natural grape sugar. The word "abocado" means  smooth and pleasant to the palate, but in wine terms it means fairly sweet. The grapes are 100% Palomino - no PX in there -  and they come from Lustau's 170 hectare Montegilillo vineyard in the pago Carrascal, which is noted for Olorosos. Only a limited amount is made, and this was bottle number 5221 of 14,000. A quick calculation reveals that there must have been about 14 butts of this wine, which after ageing for 13 years, was released in 2010.
Price
In Spain, around 25 Euros, and in Britain around £25 if you can find it. 50 cl. bottle. UK importers Fields, Morris & Verdin don't include it on their list.

22.7.13 Sherry Stock Situation; Lustau Win More Medals

Production in Jerez has swung from an alarming excess to an alarming shortage, aggravated by grubbing up and abandonment of vineyard and a very small 2012 harvest – one of the smallest in history. This could lead to supply shortages in the short to medium term.  The harvest for 2013, which is predicted to be 25% bigger or around 60 million kilos will only provide a short term relief.

This harvest should provide about 60,000 butts, but 80,000 are needed for estimated sales, leaving a deficit of 20,000, meaning that there could be shortages in about 3 years as stock works through the system. It is a major worry, and an analysis of the situation will shortly get underway to find ways to combat the situation.

It had been thought that that the supply and demand balance had been restored, but now it looks as though the grubbing-up was excessive. 10,000 hectares were reduced to 7,000 – almost one third of the vineyard was lost. This was not helped by the poor state of some vineyards caused by the poor economic situation of growers. Action is needed soon.

The vineyards need an integral plan and producers need to discuss the future. Even with the 500 hectares which are now back in the Denominacion de Origen after being used for trials of complementary products, it is estimated that if the next harvest is normal, there will be 75,000 butts, leaving a deficit against sales of 5,000. The cumulative effect over 2012,13 and 14 will therefore be 55,000 butts, or 27 and a half million litres. Meanwhile, bodega stocks have been reduced by 20% over the last three years, from over 400,000 at the end of 2011 to the 315,000 with which it is hoped to end this season.

All available information needs to be put on the table, particularly the state of the vineyards which are theoretically in production but which give low yields for lack of husbandry over recent years. They need to be recuperated, work which takes time and no small financial investment. The bodegas need to clarify their future requirements, in fact everyone in the trade needs to work together.

Lustau’s capataz, Manuel Lozano has won the International Wine Challenge “Best Winemaker” for a record fifth time. Lustau won 35 medals: 12 gold, 14 silver and 9 bronze. Manuel has been the Lustau enologist since 1999 and he looks after the vineyards as well as the 22,000 butts in his care, which he regards as his children. A modest man, he “wasn’t expecting this, as the standard improves every year”, and thanked his team at Grupo Caballero.

Manuel with judge Charles Metcalfe

21.5.13 Osborne Profits; Ruta del Vino Logo; Lustau Win Gold; World Sherry Day

Grupo Osborne has announced its figures at the shareholder AGM for 2012, which show net sales of 222 m euros and a gross profit of 32.5 m euros, representing a 7% rise. The drinks side of the business contributed 78% of sales, principally brandy, anis, Rioja etc. The remaining 22% came from Iberico Pork and restaurants, which have seen growth of 50%. Unfortunately, Sherry was not a major contributor.

The Wine and Brandy Route of the Jerez area has a new logo. It was designed by Jose Antonio Chanivet, from Puerto Real. The logo was tiring and in need of a change, and this is a great improvement. La Asociacion de la Ruta del Vino y Brandy del Marco de Jerez, which covers all the main municipalities of the area, is composed of some 70 entities connected to enoturismo (wine tourism). These are bodegas, hotels, restaurants, bars, tabancos or wine shops, and they must all comply with the Association’s quality manual. The route is part of the official national system of Wine Routes, and is among the most popular.

Bodegas Emilio Lustau has won no less than 21 medals at the IWSC in London, considered the “Oscars” of the wine trade. They won half the medals available!

Their VORS Oloroso, Amontillado and Palo Cortado won gold, while the VORS PX won silver. Rio Viejo Oloroso, Rich Oloroso Anada 1997, PX San Emilio, Amontillado Los Arcos and the Almacenista Pata de Gallina also won gold. Three more Almacenista wines won silver: Amontillado de Sanlucar Cuevas, Amontillado del Puerto Cuevas and Palo Cortado Vides. Silver also went to Moscatel Emilin, Oloroso Emperatriz Eugenia, Palo Cortado Peninsula and Puerto Fino. Fino La Ina, Amontillado Botaina, East India Solera and Oloroso Don Nuno all won bronze.

 The first World Sherry Day has now listed over 200 worldwide events in 23 countries taking place this week up to the day itself, Sunday 26^th. The town council of Jerez is looking at how to link WSD with next year’s Vinoble wine fair, along with – if it is granted – European City of Wine. Jerez is a candidate for this, and to that end has renewed its connection with Recevin, the European network of wine cities. The bodegas of Jerez are the most visited in Europe with 311,000 visits last year. To keep abreast of what is happening, follow these sites:

www.worldsherryday.com y www.turismojerez.com.

23.2.13 Various News Items

The XVII Festival de Jerez got underway last night with various flamenco acts with dancing, singing and music at the Villamarta Theatre. The Gala Inaugural was criticised for its length, partly for unnecessary extras, but was nonetheless a success, and a great start to the festival.

Garvey is selling its last two bodegas. The Complejo Bellavista and bodega Zoilo Ruiz Mateos will be sold together in the summer, although a price has not yet been fixed. In April it will be two years since the administration proceedings began, and a meeting will be held soon with management.

The actual owner of the bodegas, Angel de Cabo, through his company Back in Business, is in custody for suspected fraud concerning a travel agency business, and the possibility of him running Garvey and ZRM has been ruled out. The workforce, which has been much reduced over the last few years as the company’s debt spiralled to 250 million euros, along with the management, would like the business to be sold to someone who would continue it as it is.

According to accounts supplied by Back in Business, the value of the business minus its debt stands at a negative figure of 18 million euros if the distribution company Union de Grandes Bodegas is taken into account.

Meanwhile the Ruiz Mateos family, once owners of the bodegas as Nueva Rumasa, are being pursued through the courts. The labyrinthine nature of their affairs, however, will make it very difficult to secure convictions. In the family itself, everyone is falling out with each other and blaming each other while their creditors and investors will likely get nothing.

Ruiz Mateos and his six sons 

Lustau recently gave a tutored tasting of a range of its wines to students of the prestigious Oxford University Wine Society at Exeter College, founded in 1314. Around 50 students were given a talk about the bodega followed by a tasting of the wines by Federico Sanchez Pece, brand ambassador.

Palo Cortado 19% Waitrose, Lustau

Appearance
Deep amber with the slightest trace of black and coppery tints fading through autumnal yellow to a pale rim with just a trace of green, legs.
Nose
At first a hint of meaty oloroso, then a trace of Marmite and some toasted almonds and hazelnuts, fairly light and genuinely neither oloroso nor amontillado, but with characteristics of both, but leaning towards amontillado, not particularly forceful.
Palate
Dry, slightly fuller and definitely more oloroso, quite savoury with good texture, slightly bitter walnut and a trace of something burnt, fairly low acidity balanced by the bitterness to give it a tang. Slightly odd, (dare I say confected?) but a very pleasant wine, especially with cheese or stews.
Comments
This wine is from Waitrose's more up-market range of own labels from Lustau with a brown label and the brand "Solera Jerezana". It also carries the Lustau brand "Solera Reserva". Lustau themselves market a Palo Cortado from their Solera Reserva range called "Peninsula", also 19%, though it is unlikely to be the same wine as the price is quite different; Peninsula is usually over £20, and the Waitrose one is £8,89. After referring to my notes on Peninsula, it is definitely not the same, but represents good value.

Oloroso Don Nuno 20%, Emilio Lustau

Appearance
Deep bright amber fading through amber to yellowy green rim, legs.
Nose
Elegant, very fine, forthcoming, walnut in syrup with a slightly savoury edge and a crisp note, and at the same time a touch of implicit sweetness, quite rich with some chestnut there too and a toasty suggestion of oak.
Palate
Tangy and elegant, some age but not too full and lean, well rounded with that savoury edge and implicit sweetness yet dry. Beautifully controlled oxidation, nutty with the slightest trace of natural chocolate and toast. Considerable length.
Comments
Although perhaps appearing older, Don Nuno is aged for about 12 years.From Lustau's Solera Reserva range, it is delicious, and a very good example of oloroso.

Price

£ 13.95 from Drinkmonger, and very reasonable too.

A Sherry dinner at Bia Bistrot, Edinburgh

Recently I enjoyed one of the best dinners ever, not only because the only wine served was Sherry but because the food was quite excellent and married beautifully with the wines.

Roisin and Matthias of Bia Bistrot organised five courses and Mat and I from Drinkmonger organised the five accompanying Sherries, about which I had to say a few words. Encouragingly the dinner was sold out in no time, but did leave a disappointed waiting list. An opportunity for a repeat, hopefully!

Here is what we had:

On arrival
Mackerel wrapped in crisped serrano ham and grated courgette salad  with  Lustau Manzanilla Papirusa

Starter
Coley and brandade with a tapenade crust accompanied by Sanchez Romate Fino Marismeno

Main
Ayrshire pork fillet and cheek "mojo picon" with Lustau Almacenista Vides Palo Cortado

Cheese
Corra Linn and Lanark Blue, fig and almond wheel, Lustau Don Nuno Oloroso

Dessert
Walnut cake and butterscotch ice cream, Venerable PX VORS Domec/Osborne

So if you're having friends round, why not try one or more of these very successful marriages? If you are in the Edinburgh area, I can't recommend Bia enough. There is a friendly, quietly competent atmosphere. They have a website: biabistrot.co.uk

News from Jerez 22.6.12

More trouble for the Ruiz Mateos family. Their ex lawyer and also the Guardia Civil have linked them with illegal payments to ex trade union leader Juan Lanzas for securing EREs for 5 Nueva Rumasa companies, 3 in Jerez. EREs (Expedientes de Regulacion de Empleo) are legal proceedings by which a company in difficulty can legally dismiss staff, who will get certain worker rights. It appears that Lanzas was receiving regular "dirty money" cash payments of 20-25,000 euros, all in 500 euro notes, in exchange for abusing his position along with a high ranking civil servant in the Junta de Andalucia. The latter is believed to be married to one of Ruiz Mateos' daughters.

Interestingly, the ex president of the Consejo Regulador of Jerez, Antonio Fernandez had to resign for irregularities with EREs.

Better news:
A festival of flamenco called La Luna de San Juan-Lustau will take place in 4 of Jerez' most traditional squares on the night of San Juan. It is co-sponsored by Bodegas Emilio Lustau. The strains of the cante jondo (the deep song) will ring out from 10.00pm. Go if you can!