26.5.18 Oloroso Sherry Launched by New Scotch Distillery

One of the problems with establishing a new distillery is that for the spirit to be called “Scotch Whisky” it must be at least three years old, and in practice it is often considerably older. For the first few years therefore, the distillery has nothing to sell to cover operating costs. Many have resorted to Gin or special bottlings of other Whiskies, and while the Port of Leith Distillery is about to launch a Gin, “The Antidote”, they have come up with a really great idea: Sherry; the same Oloroso used to season the butts their Single Malt Whisky will be aged in. It will be a great opportunity for Whisky fans to better understand where an important part of the Whisky’s flavour and aroma comes from, quite apart from being a lovely drink on its own. This Oloroso comes from a 50 year old solera at Bodegas Barón in Sanlúcar, originally established in 1631, and is bottled in Spain. The wine is packaged with a beautiful label showing images of Leith on the left and Sanlúcar on the right, and will soon be available at £15 ex distillery and also from the Bodega. The Port of Leith, now part of Edinburgh, was once the epicentre of the Scotch Whisky industry, as well as the Scottish wine trade, and it was here that the process of ageing Whisky in Sherry butts began.

Palo Cortado Micaela 18.75%, Bodegas Barón

Appearance

Deep amber with copper and brass highlights, legs.

Nose

Forthcoming and fragrant with lots of toasted almond, pronounced salinity and a slightly bitter edge presumably left by flor, though the contact must have been pretty brief, and background notes of cinnamon and oak. There is a lovely tension between the roundness of a fairly young but mature wine and the maritime notes of Sanlúcar. Good start.

Palate

Forthright crisp and saline start with gently bitter nutty oxidative flavours and a decent acidity. There are autumnal and slightly savoury notes of fallen leaves and tobacco and a sweeter hint of turrón huevo tostado giving it real character, and a very long finish.

Comments

This attractive wine, which could only come from Sanlúcar, is a special limited edition. It is perhaps around 12 years old and quite a serious wine. I feel that many Palos Cortados either lean towards Amontillado or towards Oloroso, and this one leans towards Amontillado. You can still clearly see the Manzanilla origins which give it that lovely maritime style.

Price

19.90 euros from La Casa del Jerez

Amontillado Pinos Viejos 17.5%, Bodegas Barón

Appearance

Mid amber with brassy highlights, legs.

Nose

Quite forthcoming and very savoury with obvious recent crianza biológica, early stage oxidation with a little puppy fat and a salted caramel note. There are plenty of nuts: peanut praline and turrón and a certain glyceric sweetness. Very Sanluqueño in style with a trace of seaside.

Palate

Open with a gentle texture, and while it seems to have a touch of sweetness at first it is dry with a fairly low acidity. Being a young wine it is easy on the palate but yet opens out into a creditable Amontillado with more character than one would expect for its age. Long clean finish.

Comments

It seems that Barón have added a new range of younger wines to their catalogue: Pino Viejo is a brand they have used for years but it has now been made into a complete entry level range of  nine wines, all with the same label, but equally artistic and colourful as the other wines. This wine is only 5 years old yet has real character at a very affordable price.

Price

About 8 euros from La Casa del Jerez

Cream Micaela 17%, Bodegas Barón

Appearance
Deeply coloured walnut brown through mahogany to amber at the rim, legs.
Nose
Attractive, fairly fruity, raisiny PX and caramel aromas followed by savoury hints of walnut and fairly old Oloroso, but overall it has a fresh, gently fruity and tangy aroma with some seriousness behind and a notable PX texture.
Palate
A nicely balanced blend,generously flavoured and not excessively sweet, and with a soft texture and good Oloroso flavour. What a Cream Sherry should be. There is just a trace of salinity betraying its sanluqueño roots, but that just adds to its freshness and vitality. Good length.

Comments
This is a very good Cream Sherry from Sanlúcar. It is aged for about five years as a blend and is part of the well-priced and well-made Micaela range from Barón. I feel Cream Sherries are overlooked because everyone wants more fashionable dry Sherry, but this is perfect for sipping slightly chilled with some torta malagueña while watching a late night film.

Price
About 12 euros from La Casa del Jerez