6.1.16 Manzanilla Rebels Publish Manifesto

The Professional Association of Artisan Bodegas of Sanlúcar has produced a manifesto “in defence of Manzanilla and the wine producing traditions of Sanlúcar” in which they demand “greater power of decision making” for the Manzanilla DO within the Consejo Regulador, and “respect for its traditions looking toward the future” which would imply the protection of the open sale of BIB wine.

In a note, the Association which was recently constituted to promote, preserve, improve and defend the wine producers of Sanlúcar, calls on the support of citizens in the face of a “situation of continual defencelessness against the persecution and harassment they have been suffering in recent months.” The objective is “to permit the sale of BIB wines as the principal means of supply to despachos (shops selling draft wine) bars, restaurants and tabancos.”

They are also seeking from the Junta, the body which regulates and oversees the Consejo, “legislation which provides the DO Manzanilla with the equality they should have with DO Jerez at the Consejo,” even, if that could be achieved, “the creation of an independent Manzanilla committee where those with no interest in Sanlúcar would no longer have control in decision making.”

Typical BIBs (foto:diariodejerez)

To spread awareness among the citizens of the “gravity” the elimination of BIB wines by Fedejerez, a body which comprises mainly Jerez bodegas, would have, they will initiate a campaign collecting signatures of support for their manifesto. It declares that the wine producers of Sanlúcar form an “integral part of the Marco de Jerez and are the only people responsible for the production of Manzanilla,” and that they have been “losing bodegas and vineyard at an unsustainable rate over the last 30 years.”

The “politics of resistance to change” which “cling to the prestige of the past without recognising the complications of the present and resist looking to the future” bring, in their opinion, “an ever more obvious concentration in the wine producing sector, and with it the loss of producers and of jobs.” They say that the bodegas of Sanlúcar, “always watchful of the quality” of the product and “never forgetting our roots and traditions” must adapt to the demand of the markets, both at home and abroad. They point out that the Fedejerez proposal of “banning BIB” would bring with it “the disappearance of a deeply rooted and traditional means of selling wine in the city of Manzanilla.”

Therefore they ask that the proposals of the bodegas in the DO Manzanilla be “heard, listened to and respected” in their own Consejo Regulador.

26.10.15 Junta Declares Bag in Box Illegal

Bodegas in Sanlúcar which continue to sell de-classified Manzanilla in BIB will be prosecuted by the Junta, which has noted that the sale of these products without a Denominación de Origen (DO) is illegal and has already been denounced by Fedejerez and the Consejo Regulador. At the last full meeting of the Consejo BIB was again refused authorisation. Now the Junta’s technical and legal people from the Agriculture Department have taken samples from the bodegas reported to it. They say there is clear infringement of the rules in terms of labelling and offenders could be fined between 3,000 and 50,000 euros depending on the seriousness of the offence.

BIBs for sale in a bar (foto:diariodejerez)

The Junta has already informed offenders that proceedings have begun and they have 15 days to answer the allegations and a period of 10 months for a resolution. Two types of offence have been detected: those which infringe the DO by the use of protected terms such as “fina” or “en rama” or protected imagery such as the harvest or rows of barrels which allude to Sherry, and those which infringe law 2/2011 with respect to the quality of agro-alimentary goods.

In the latter case the rules state that biologically aged wines with an alcoholic strength of 15% can only be sold under the umbrella of the authorised DOs of Sherry, Montilla and Condado de Huelva. By choosing to de-classify their wine to sell it in BIB producers are not covered by the DO and lose the right to sell it as wine. At the last Consejo meeting Fedejerez lamented the time it was taking for the Junta to act on its complaints against the Manzanilla producers.

17.7.15 Fedejerez Attacks Sanlúcar Mayor; Vodka Made from Sherry

After Victor Mora, the Mayor of Sanlúcar’s wholehearted support for “Manzanilla” in bag-in-box, (BIB) Fedejerez president Evaristo Babé has criticised his support for an illegal container saying that he might have been manipulated by a minority of producers. He publicly expressed his worry that the support, however well – intentioned, was given to producers who can only represent some 10% of all the Manzanilla produced, or 3% of all Sherry, rather than supporting the great majority which sustain employment, the raising of taxes and generation of wealth.

Babé said that BIB is manifestly illegal and should be prosecuted, and that he was worried that a public administration would support it. He also criticised the laxity of the Junta saying that neither the Consejo nor Fedejerez were aware of any prosecutions or sanctions despite numerous complaints by both organisations. He considers it “incomprehensible and unacceptable” that this lack of diligence has led to enormous judicial insecurity benefiting those who break the rules and hurting those who do not. The law is there to be obeyed and public administration has the obligation and responsibility to make sure it is obeyed.

Evaristo Babe (R) with Beltran Domecq

He further lamented the politicisation of the matter, saying that it is strictly a business matter and should be resolved by business. In no case should the council the Junta or the state be involved, “what kind of businessman acts like that? It would be inconceivable in Britain, Germany, Holland. With a mentality like that you can understand certain things…”

Williams & Humbert have launched a unique new vodka called “Abyssal”. Unlike most vodkas which are distilled from potatoes or cereals, this one is distilled from wine- Oloroso Sherry. It has taken three years of research to perfect it and it is distilled three times in the same traditional alembiques (copper pot stills) used to produce Brandy Solera Gran Reserva Gran Duque de Alba. The final spirit is 74%/vol and is incredibly pure.

Sold at 40%/vol, Abyssal recalls the Nordic legend of the Unicorn’s transformation into the Narwhal in the abyssal depths of the sea, and it is presented in a spherical black glass bottle resembling a black pearl. The silver plated label shows an image of the narwhal. The vodka is best consumed chilled but without ice or in cocktails. It is silky smooth with a trace of spice and makes a fantastic Bloody Mary.

12.4.15 Fedejerez Repeats Warning Against Bag in Box

With the start of the feria season and the traditional huge increase in consumption, Fedejerez, the federation of bodegas, is warning against the use of Bag in Box (BIB) packaging for Sherry. They have set up a campaign to warn consumers that Sherry can only legally be sold in glass bottles, and that in no circumstances can any other form of packaging carry the Denominación de Origen (DO).

Fedejerez is pointing out the misleading nature of BIB and the grave economic consequences for the image of the genuine products of Jerez and Sanlúcar. In the rules of the Consejo, section H.4, it is made quite clear that Sherry shall be sold for direct consumption in glass or any other material the Consejo might authorise. Only glass has been authorised.

Although those who sell BIB have declassified the wine (ie they are not claiming DO), confusion is caused among consumers as the BIBs carry words and pictures which have been used historically in the commercialisation of Sherry. Consumers assume they are buying a genuine DO product when in reality it is a declassified Sherry or a wine from somewhere else such as Montilla or Huelva, where there are no controls on BIB. Fedejerez considers this as little short of fraud and unfair competition, as BIBs do not undergo the rigorous checks that Sherry must and are taking advantage of its worldwide prestige, earned over many years of investment.

The low price of BIBs is also a cause of concern: young wine is sold in cheap packaging which makes the bottled DO product look expensive. If consumers then opt for the cheaper version, sales of proper Sherry will fall leaving less money to invest in research, vineyards, promotion or wages for example, and ultimately, jobs. Smaller resources would make it more difficult to promote to younger people, de-seasonalise consumption and recuperate Sherry’s prestige.

At the end of the day, use of BIBs will not impress markets such as Japan or the USA which want top quality wines, in bottle and well promoted, something which can only be achieved by promoting bottled brands which give Sherry its prestigious image.

The Bag-in-Box Debate

From an interesting article by Juan P Simó in yesterday's Diario de Jerez

The bag-in-box (BIB) is causing headaches for Fedejerez who defend glass as the only option.

How strange. Señor Fino's little sister Manzanilla is getting above herself. First, many years ago now, she outsold the all-powerful Fino San Patricio at the most profitable of all the Spanish ferias, the Feria de Abril in Sevilla. Now she is causing a stir over packaging and what is in that packaging. One is accustomed to opening the little tap on a BIB and seeing Manzanilla flowing out, but two days ago we came across a BIB whose contents were not Manzanilla, but mosto.

Manzanilla BIBs (foto: Diario de Jerez)

It doesn't stop there. Use of the new packaging also upsets the Consejo's annual sales figures by artificially reducing Denominación de Origen (DO) sales. In 2001 some enthusiastic Manzanilleros (Manzanilla producers) became interested in the new packaging. They de-classified part of their production which was therefore not DO Manzanilla and sold the wine in this package which is not permitted by the Consejo. Over the years, this initiative matured, like the wine and has now been very successful, really taking off in 2012 with a jump of some 500% to a million litres of de-classified "Manzanilla Type" wine. And all this because of the BIB, which other DO's had adopted without blinking for the increased sales against bottles. The Manzanilleros' gamble had been successful as the BIB is ideal for ferias and very popular in Scandinavia.

So what are the advantages of the BIB? They are many: they are more economical, more hygenic, conserve the wine better, keep costs down, are easier for distribution, are lighter and have a lower impact on the environment. Wine producers in Montilla and Huelva have adopted the BIB and now represent a potential threat to our little blonde Manzanilla. All this comes from a report to the Consejo itself which extolled the virtues of the BIB, but proposed its acceptance be restricted to the catering trade. A plenary meeting of the Consejo however knocked it back. Nowadays, BIBs of 3litres, 5 litres or more are to be found on sale in bodega shops, wine shops, cooperatives and even petrol stations at very accessible prices. They cannot, however use the word "Manzanilla" on the label even though it might be, and suggestive terms are used instead, such as "Hidalgo Fina", "Fina en Rama" or "Finísima".

Sanlucar Coop BIB (foto: solostocks.com)

Fedejerez president, Evaristo Babé, is sick of repeating the mantra that "Manzanilla is only Manzanilla if it is in a bottle which bears the seal of the Consejo. Anything else could deceive the consumer." And although BIB is in widespread demand, Babé maintains that its use poses a threat to the image of Manzanilla and represents the spear that could kill all the good promotional work. He has therefore asked for a change of mentality and for the abandonment of anything which lowers the image of Sherry, and to instead opt for quality: the glass bottle. Fedejerez sees the BIB as a factor which could unbalance the market, which is currently in good shape, with concurrent risks to employment and feels that all Sherry should be sold in bottle rather than bulk.

3.2.14 Manzanilla Slows Sherry Sales on Spanish Market

Sherry has missed a great opportunity to put an end to the prolonged drop in sales, but at least the volume lost has been compensated for by the recuperation of prices. In the Spanish market, poorer sales of Manzanilla brought down the good results of other wines because of the lack of agreement on the use of bag-in-box (BIB), which is not permitted in the Denominacion de Origen (DO), despite growing demand.

Everything was set to change in 2013 after long years of falling sales, but in the end another drop was recorded, of 7.56%, or 10% in exports and 2% at home, despite growing critical acclaim. Sales of Manzanilla – the best-selling Sherry in Spain - are down 5%, while Fino and Cream are up an average 3%.

The fall in sales of Manzanilla is a result of producers simply de-classifying their wine and selling BIB without the DO to the many fairs and festivals. The OIV (International Wine Organisation) has proposed a change to the tariff code for BIB, considered up till now as bulk wine for customs purposes, as this format is common in other DO’s and is very popular with consumers, especially in Scandinavia. The Consejo Regulador however, sees the BIB as inferior in quality to glass.

Nonetheless, increasing numbers of Manzanilla producers are prepared to forego the DO and sell at least some of their wine in BIB. At the end of the day, it is the same wine, however, but there is a risk that the DO might lose some of its brands, in a similar way to some brandy brands which chose to blend brandy with spirit and call themselves “spirit drinks”. Wines sold without the DO do not figure in the Consejo statistics, and could amount to hundreds of thousands of litres, distorting the figures considerably.

There is still work to be done in foreign markets, but at least prices are firmer, especially in Buyers Own Brand (BOB) and Distributors’ brands. A key factor in this is the disappearance of Nueva Rumasa, whose aggressive low-price strategy forced prices down to little above cost – as low as 70 centimos a bottle. Now, as prices rise, sales are dropping, but perceived quality is rising, especially in Holland and Germany, the two big BOB markets.

In the UK, the biggest export market, sales have also been falling - by a million litres, or 8.5% - especially with Cream and Pale Cream styles, mainly from a lack of special offers over the festive period by the two leaders, Croft and Bristol Cream. BOB sales have risen slightly, however.

Sales of Cream in the USA have also slipped, but those of the dry styles have increased markedly, especially Fino, Manzanilla and Amontillado. The Asian market has also seen a large boost, albeit from a small base. In conclusion, Jerez has seen smaller volume sales but is keeping up turnover.

24.5.13 Barbadillo and World Sherry Day; Fedejerez Proposes End to Bulk Wine

Bodegas Barbadillo of Sanlucar have announced their activities for World Sherry Day starting on Sunday, the Day itself. Along with the doors open visits from 10.00 till 15.00, they have organised a full programme of tastings which start at 11.00 till 13.00.

Juanjo Mesa of the enology department will lead the first part of the tasting programme with a vertical of Manzanillas. The second part will be a tasting of Manzanillas and Jerez wines led by another bodega expert, Rocio Rodriguez of the PR department.

Fedejerez proposes an end to all bulk wine, hoping all Sherry will leave the bodegas in bottle.  The association, which represents 90% of the bodegas believes that the moment has come to take a leap in quality and opt for the bodegas’ own leading brands, the high quality wines which are not only more profitable, but give Jerez its prestige. They feel it is time to get away from low grade wines as well as garrafas and bag-in-box BIB) formats, and to disqualify them from the DO.

In Sanlucar, however, many small bodegas would prefer to disqualify their Manzanilla in order to continue to sell it to the bar/catering trade in BIB, a very popular business. But Fedejerez is adamant that only the glass bottle will assure a profitable future for Sherry, and hopes that this will be included in the new Sherry Reglamento. This is a rather thorny issue.

According to the president of Fedejerez, Evaristo Babe, the future is in bottles, which offer all the guarantees of quality, hygiene and control. He sees no other problems  in supply to the pouring trade, particularly tabancos, with re-fillable bottles. He feels it is time to turn the page on the times in which anything goes and in which there has been excess production and rock-bottom prices. It is entirely logical that the bodegas should seek to improve things – to survive. Now that balance has been restored to the region, it is felt that alternative packaging, such as BIB detracts from the value of the product.

Many bodegas already take the matter as already settled, as it was debated at a plenary at the Consejo over a year ago, when the proposal to authorise the BIB was rejected by a majority. The majority are in favour of the bottle and the “maximum level of excellence” inherent in it. While they are aware that things can’t be fixed overnight, they are also well aware of the mistakes of the past.

Babe says that Sherry got involved in a spiral of reducing costs such that everything was to do with price, but the situation now is different. BIB barely covers the cost of the grapes, which has almost doubled in the last year, and he says that it is now time for a change of mentality, a change in the model. Bodegas’ own leading brands, in bottle, he considers, are synonymous with investment and employment.

This contrasts with the strength of the BOB sector, another matter which has to be dealt with in order to achieve “maximum excellence”.  Surprisingly, there are very few leading brands, but there need to be, in order to gain critical mass, and anyone who wants to go their own way does not have to belong to the DO. We should go for quality and not do what Montilla and Condado de Huelva (other Andaluz fortified wines) have done by embracing BIB.