Appearance
Bright pure amber fading through yellow to a slight hint of green at the rim.
Nose
Very forthcoming and aromatic with a gentle sweetness wrapped around toasted hazelnuts and almonds and a definite hint of cinnamon, a little like lebkuchen. Traces of oak, gingerbread, dried fruits and a touch of alcohol add to the complexity. This is very attractive, fresh and fragrant, still with the very slightest hints as to its Fino background. It is all very subtle.
Palate
Quite light and fresh compared to many VORS Amontillados, incredibly elegant with a fair acidic tang which keeps it clean. Then the flavour floods in, again all those nuts and hints of spice, some glycerol to balance the tannins and acidity and make it really smooth. It is a kind of gentle giant: lots of character but (too) easy to drink yet has terrific depth of flavour and length. Sheer class.
Comments
Perhaps the name of this wine is confusing. How can a thirty year old Amontillado be called Fino? Well it started out as a Fino, and surprisingly still retains some Fino characteristics. It should be pointed out that the terms Fino-Amontillado or Amontillado-Fino are no longer permitted as, however accurate they may have been in describing the wine, they could cause confusion. So Fino Imperial is a brand name rather than a description. It is sealed with a driven cork, so can be laid down for years - if you can resist it!
Made from Palomino grapes from albariza soils in Jerez Superior, the wine spends its first 5 years under Flor and used to be refreshed from time to time with Manzanilla Pasada (helping slightly with the Fino characteristics) though now Fino is used. The next 25 years are spent gently oxidising. There are 5 criaderas and a 27-butt solera laid down in 1793. Over such a period, the wine reaches its strength naturally, and needs no further fortification. The solera was bought by Diez Hermanos, and predates that company's foundation in 1876. Even the wine from the last criadera is superb!
Price
This isn't cheap at 93 Euros ex bodega, (but it does come in a wooden box!) It is a must-try wine, though. Unfortunately it is not available in the UK.
