Sunday, 18 August 2019
Manzanilla 2015 Pago Añina 17%, Viña Callejuela
Yellow gold with a slight brassy tinge, bright and clean.
Quite complex, lean and saline with faint notes of beach, iodine quayside ropes followed by lots of dank flor. It starts quite muscular then develops more elegance and a little more weight as it opens out and begins to fill the palate. There is a slight nutty butteriness and a very gentle oxidative note.
Fairly full, a shade fuller than the Callejuela, with beautifully judged acidity making it lively but friendly and just right to get the flavour across. And there´s plenty of that with slight hints of brine and oxidation which give it a serious quality, good texture and terrific length.
After the great success of the 2012 vintage Manzanilla, the idea, promulgated by Ramiro Ibáñez, has become a welcome fixture at Viña Callejuela. In that year they left 11 butts in sobretablas (fortified but ageing statically) with the idea of bottling one butt per year, starting in 2015, to let aficionados witness how the same wine develops over time from Manzanilla fina through to Amontillado. This wine however, is from a single vintage (2015) so different every year, and a single pago, one of the three in which they own vineyard: Macharnudo, Callejuela and this Añina. Production was around 900 x 50 cl bottles.