Sunday, 29 July 2012

Amontillado Vina AB 16.5%, Gonzalez Byass

Appearance
Old gold, faintest trace amber, legs.
Nose
Quite young, still saline traces of flor, touches of hazelnuts and almonds, well rounded with an attractive hint of bitterness, traces linseed oil and the slightest hint of honey.
Palate
Dry but not austere, tangy, quite light and young but has some complexity, a sort of bitter hazelnut praline along with the salinity from the flor and a slight memory of yeast autolysis, quite gentle and very elegant.
Comments
Somewhere between 10 and 12 years old when tasted but now stated as being 12 on the label, this is really a Fino-Amontillado, using Tio Pepe as the base wine  which is transferred to a specific 700 butt solera. The term Fino-Amontillado is no longer permitted. The name of the wine originates in the name of a vineyard which was one of the first bought by Manuel Maria Gonzalez from an almacenista called Andres Botaina (AB). Manuel Maria and Pedro Domecq jointly bought this XIX century solera and Gonzalez Byass eventually bottled all of theirs in the 1960s and sold it as part of a "Soleras Exclusivas" range at auction in London in the 1970s. That, obviously, was the end of the solera, and what we have now is not related to it, except by name. It is a very useful style which is dry but not aggressively so, perfect for a multitude of palates and for those new to Sherry. Best served slightly chilled, but warmer than a Fino, it goes beautifully with all sorts of tapas.


Price
About £12.50 from Oddbins





News from Jerez 29.7.12

The demand for labourers to pick the 2012 harvest has plummeted by 25% due to the invasion of mechanical harvesters which halve the cost of bringing in the grapes.

In these hard times, a lot of people are looking for work: many are unemployed or students looking to finance their studies. The invasion of the machines has dramatically reduced the demand for labour, down by 20-30% on last year according to union calculations, or about 6-7,000 workers - half the number of only a few years ago.

Over the years the pickers have become more professional, but with few exceptions not even qualified workers have a guarantee of work hand picking vineyards which have decreased in area in barely three years from over 10,000 hectares to around 6,500 in production this year.

Mechanisation of the harvest now counts for more than half of the vineyards. It costs about half the wages of pickers, and does the job twice as quickly, which helps the strained finances of the producers, one of whom is rumoured to be intending to harvest entirely by machine.

Other wine producing areas both in Spain and abroad are also offering less work, and there are more people looking for it. Wage increases in Jerez can only be tiny even though outside the Jerez DO they can be higher, and the unions are planning possible action to protest the lack of negotiation.




Saturday, 28 July 2012

News from Jerez 27.7.12

The judicial net is tightening round  the Ruiz Mateos family.

Following preventive measures adopted by the Granada Mercantile Court to prohibit any attempt by the family to transfer the brands of Dhul (a desserts producer) to third companies via companies they own, the Trades Unions are seeking an injunction on the Garvey brands to avoid their possible transfer. "Without the brands there is nothing". The Ruiz Mateos family still owns the registered title of the Garvey brands, the exclusive rights of use of which are assigned to Complejo Bodeguero Bellavista (the Garvey bodega) until 2015. The bodega's administrators consider the potential loss of the brand names is an added risk to the running of the business, as do the firm's actual owners, Back in Business, in their viability plan.

It seems that the Ruiz Mateos family have tried to register the Dhul brand names to spurious third companies they also own under a spurious holding company in Belize so that they can be kept out of  insolvency or expropriation proceedings. The unions are worried the same could happen at Garvey after 2015.

Thursday, 26 July 2012

Moscatel de Chipiona 15%, Emilio Lustau

Appearance
Very pale, bright silvery gold with the slightest trace of green, legs.
Nose
Made from super ripe grapes, but not pasificada, very fresh with that lovely grapey Moscatel aroma, trace tartaric, light and sweet but not over sweet, very attractive.
Palate
Sweet but very fresh, with the weight of its 15%, a mistela style wine, not much acidity, but certainly tangy, with a trace of tannin which along with the tanginess balances the sweetness, not aged.
Comments
A really good example of Moscatel must fortified to retain the sweetness and the exquisite Moscatel freshness and flavour. Grown on sandy soils at Chipiona near the coast. Delicious, and good value.


Price
£5.99 (50cl) from Waitrose




News from Jerez 26.7.12

A new Spain-based online wine and spirits retailer has started up. They are specialists in Sherry with a huge range of all styles from the inexpensive (@ 3 euros) to the slightly dearer (nearly 200 euros). This looks like an enterprise that we Sherry lovers should be supporting!
www.losvinosdejerez.com

Bodegas: Harveys

The name Harveys is synonymous with Sherry, and their Bristol Cream was once the biggest selling brand. Times and tastes have changed and now Tio Pepe is the biggest selling brand. Bristol Cream is still a big seller however and a high quality wine, though most of their other brands are long forgotten. Does anyone remember Merienda, Isabelita, Club Amontillado, Bristol Dry, Reina Victoria, Shooting Sherry, Bank, Gran Solera, Tico, Luncheon Dry, Copper Beech, Bristol Fino, Bristol Milk (of which there used to be a fantastic driven-cork version for laying down like Port)?



The firm was established at 12, Denmark Street, Bristol in 1796 by one William Perry in cellars on the site of what was once a XIII century monastery and later a medieval wine cellar known as Gaunt House. From the beginning, Perry specialised in the shipping of Sherry and Port, but also dealt in Madeira and wines from the Rhine and the Canaries. Naturally he sold Bristol Milk, a sweetened oloroso which was very popular in Bristol, the earliest written record (in the British Museum) of which goes back to 1634.



John Harvey (1806-78) whose father and grandfather were celebrated seafarers, joined the firm in 1822 at only 16 years of age. William Perry died about this time. In 1829, John joined an associated firm in Kidderminster, ten miles or so distant. He moved there, married and lived above the shop, while his younger brother Charles took over his post in Bristol. The cellars were extended to reach Bristol docks from where butts of Sherry and Port were trundled along tunnels to their cellars. The mainly oloroso and PX Sherry was imported in butts and aged in Bristol till deemed ready for sale or blending.



The early 1860's were important years for the company. John, with his other brother Edward had been perfecting a new blend which included an even older oloroso than that in Bristol Milk. No name had been decided for it, however. One day in 1882, an aristocratic lady who was visiting the cellars, tasted their Bristol milk and comparing it to the latest blend declared that "If the first is Bristol Milk, then this must be the Cream!" Bristol Cream was born, and went on to phenomenal success throughout the "sweet Sherry era".



John Harvey, having taken over the firm, decided to re-name it John Harvey & Sons in 1871, and his two sons, John and Edward worked with him, taking over after his death in 1878. The firm remained in family hands through their sons till 1966. Bristol Cream was registered as a trademark in 1882, and in 1895 they received the Royal Warrant. The XX century saw a younger generation join the firm and much needed modernisation was undertaken. Their first publicity campaign took place.


The original cellars in Denmark Street 1916

The Second World War hit Harveys hard. Not only were the (by now more extensive) premises at Denmark Street bombed in 1940 destroying all but the cellars, but their London offices were hit as well - twice. In the 1950s they moved to new premises in the outskirts of Bristol at Whitchurch. The last of the Harveys retired in 1956. Up till 1960, all Harveys Sherries were still matured and blended in Bristol, but it was decided to start investing in vineyards to secure supplies. In the meantime the old Denmark Street cellars were converted into a successful restaurant (by Sir Terence Conran) with a wine museum attached. The cellars have been completely refurbished and are now an upmarket Sherry bar and restaurant, still with a little museum, supported but no longer owned by Harveys. The firm's collection of glass bottles was largely auctioned off but some are still to be seen here and much was transported to exhibition space in Spain.


Part of the restored Harveys Cellars wine bar

Bristol Cream had reached the number 1 sales spot by the early 1950's, it had launched with great success in America, and Harveys were doing well. Then in 1956 they began to receive letters, written with the aid of a dictionary,which were short and to-the-point. Thirty-three letters were received in all, each with a proposal that someone they had never heard of enter into an exclusive wine supply contract with them. (Harveys needed 96,000 butts per year!) Naturally Harveys refused. But the letters kept coming, and eventually Harveys sent two executives - chairman George Edward McWatters and his right-hand-man, a Mr Cox - to Jerez to silence the writer. They returned having signed a 99 year supply contract with Jose Maria Ruiz Mateos! This contract effectively launched the Rumasa empire.

The wave of mergers and acquisitions which was the 1960s did not leave Harveys unscathed. Showerings, who had made a fortune with Babycham bought the firm at the end of 1965. Aware of a need to be based in Jerez, they went on to buy MacKenzie, whose bodegas Harveys then occupied, and 50% of Barbadillo. The Rumasa contract was terminated giving Rumasa three years' grace.

Showerings were in turn taken over by Allied Breweries in 1968. In 1973, Harveys founded two jointly owned businesses; one, Vinarvey, with Garvey and the other, Gibalbin, with Barbadillo, giving Harveys access to large areas of vineyard. 1978 saw the merger of Allied Breweries with Lyons forming Allied Lyons. In 1979 Harveys bought Misa from Rumasa, and after the expropriation of Rumasa in 1983, they bought Terry and Palomino & Vergara. During this period Harveys lost the way a bit with some odd brand launches (eg Tico) and suffered a lack of investment from their parent companies, but during the 1990s they did relaunch Bristol Cream in the Bristol Blue bottle, which remains today. 

Allied Lyons then merged with Pedro Domecq in 1994, and Allied Domecq was taken over by Pernod Ricard in 2005. They went on to dismember Domecq, selling bits to different companies, and Harveys went to Fortune Brands' drinks division Beam Global, along with Terry and Domecq's Fundador brandy. Beam went on to merge with Japanese distiller Suntory, and in 2015 Harveys, along with Fundador was sold to the Philippine distiller Emperador.

Since 1970, Harveys have operated entirely in Jerez from various bodegas:  El Brigadier which contains 6,000 butts destined for Bristol Cream, La Mezquita, La Molina 1730, and La Luz (Fundador Brandy) the latter 3 all ex Domecq.

The current range consists of:

Extra Dry Fino                                                        Harveys Palo Cortado VORS (solera 1906)
Pale Cream                                                             Amontillado VORS (solera 1914)
Amontillado Medium                                               Rich Old Oloroso VORS (solera 1909)
Bristol Cream                                                          PX VORS (solera 1919)
Reserve

The VORS wines were launched as recently as 2008 and in 2016 a new Premium range was launched.

Visits can be arranged by appointment:
Contact
C/ San Ildefonso, 3
11403 Jerez de la Frontera, Cadiz
Tel: (+34) 956 151 500
Web: www.grupoemperadorspain.com



Bodega La Mezquita

Wednesday, 25 July 2012

Extra Dry Fino 15%, Harveys

Appearance
Bright, pale strawy gold, legs.
Nose
Forthcoming, light and fresh, tight, subtle hints of flor, straw, almond and Palomino fruit, dry.
Palate
Very dry, slightly saline flor flavour, traces bitter almond and olive, low acid but tangy and very long.
Comments
This is really dry but well flavoured and characterful with that aperitif effect of making you hungry. The grapes were grown in the Macharnudo area and the wine produced at the Mezquita bodega in Jerez.
Price
£7.49 from Morrisons