Amontillado VORS Solera AOS 22%, Osborne

Appearance
Copper tinted mahogany fading to yellow with a trace of green at the rim, legs.
Nose
Full, forthcoming and complex, obviously old yet still there are hints of a former life as a Fino: a trace of Marmite, a hint of salinity, olive brine. Overall, however, it is supremely refined and well balanced with sweet notes of cinnamon, marmalade orange peel, oak, vanilla and raisin as well as lots of hazelnut praline.
Palate
Crisp, tangy and dry with a hint of glyceric sweetness and raisin balancing the oakiness. Again lots of nuts: hazel and almond and the slightest bitter walnut twist. It is a very friendly wine which has a great presence, and the acidity gives it great length. Excellent.
Comments
AOS stands for the Antonio Osborne Solera which was laid down in 1903 by Tomas Osborne Guezala (2nd Conde de Osborne) to commemorate Antonio's birth. The solera was built up from the best Amontillados in the firm's La Palma bodega in Calle La Palma in El Puerto de Santa Maria, and not run until Antonio reached the age of 21, by which time the wine was already very fine. The grapes come from the Pago Balbaina. Only 750 numbered bottles are released annually at over 30 years of age. A tiny amount of PX is blended in at the start to avoid later astringency, but the wine still feels dry. It received 97 Parker points, and belongs to Osborne's superb Rare Sherry range which includes Palo Cortado Solera PΔP, Oloroso Solera India, Oloroso BC 200, Pedro Ximenez Viejo VORS and the never-released Amontillado El Cid, which comes from the original Duff Gordon soleras which are owned by Osborne.

Price
This wine is not available in the UK unfortunately (but you could try simplywinesdirect.com or Longford Wines in Whitstable). It sells for over 190 euros in Spain for a 50cl bottle, albeit with an attractive box. The price seemed to rise as the bottle size fell.

Bodegas: Martínez Gassiot

Sebastián González Martínez was the nephew of Sabastián Martínez Pérez (1747-1800), a successful merchant from the Rioja who had established himself in Cádiz as an exporter of Sherry to Britain. He married Jane Gobbett, the widow of his partner Martínez de la Cuadra and had various children.

Sebastian Gonzalez Martinez (foto JL Jimenez)

In 1790 he founded his own company specialising in the export of Sherry, Port and Habana cigars from an office in Mincing Lane, London. In 1822 John Peter Gassiot (1797-1877) joined him forming the firm Martínez Gassiot & Co. Gassiot was an enthusiastic amateur scientist whose particular interest was electricity, and he did much work with James Clerk Maxwell. He and Martinez acquired a lodge (bodega) in Oporto in 1834, leaving its management to John Fleurriet Delaforce, who would go on to found the famous Port house of that name.

John Peter Gassiot Senior (foto JL Jimenez)

Soon they were joined by John Peter’s sons Charles Ware Gassiot (1826-1902) and John Peter Jr. (1820-?) who married María Manuela Moreno de Mora y Vitón whose family were important in the wine business in El Puerto de Santa María and had business connexions in England as well as Habana and Honduras. It is very likely that this was a source of both cigars and Sherry, though the firm did buy a lot of wine from Cuvillo, also in El Puerto de Santa María.

Label for the American market (foto JLJimenez)

Sebastián retired in 1849 when the firm was the largest importer of Port and Sherry to the United Kingdom, and its control passed into the hands of the Gassiot family. Charles really helped the business to thrive, and with no children he built a collection of art and contributed much to charity. On his death he left his art to the City of London and his money to St Thomas Hospital. John Peter Jr. also died childless, leaving a fine portrait of his father to the Vintners Company.

On the death of the brothers, and with no children from either, the firm became a public company in 1902 and was eventually taken over by Harveys in 1961 and merged with Cockburn, so there was no more Sherry. The old offices in Mincing Lane were destroyed by the Luftwaffe during the London blitz in 1940. The Martínez Gassiot brand is now more of a sous-marque, especially since the firm was acquired by the Symington Group in 2006, but there have been quite regular Martinez vintage port declarations since.

Much information from Jose Luis Jimenez

See also post on Sherry shippers who also dealt in Port

7.1.15 Sherry on Screen – Again

Sherry is in the cinema again, in two films. In the recent and excellent Mike Leigh film about the great English artist JMW Turner, “Mr Turner” drinks plenty of Sherry, sometimes with his friend, the famous English importer John James Ruskin, played by Stuart McQuarrie. In Richard Laxton’s film “Effie Gray” Ruskin is played by David Suchet.

Turner receiving Sherry

Ruskin, father of the famous Victorian writer, artist, writer, social thinker and philanthropist John Ruskin, was the leading shipper of Sherry in the early XIX century. Between 1805 and 1808 he worked for Gordon & Murphy shipping Duff Gordon wines, and then for Ruskin, Telford and Domecq shipping Haurie/Domecq wines, making a fortune (£157,000-in old money) selling fine quality wine and earning a reputation for honesty.

Turner at Ruskin's

Sherry is offered at his house at 54 Hunter Street, London when Mr Turner visits, and again at a dinner for Effie Gray, the fiancée of Ruskin’s son John (though he had always loved Pedro Domecq’s daughter Adele about whom he wrote lovely poetry).

(Info kindly supplied by José Luis Jiménez)

Manzanilla Señorita Irene 15%, Bodegas Yuste

Appearance
Very pale golden straw with a faint hint of green.
Nose
Soft and saline, gentle and fresh with lots of fresh yeasty flor. Quite young with a hint of Palomino fruit, but then the flor bitterness kicks in with traces of brine, a lactic note, hints of bitter almond and scrub, all nicely balanced.
Palate
At first soft, round and light, then the coastal flor exudes that classic yet restrained bitter yeastiness which again balances with a hint of fruit. Long dry finish with a slightly bitter twist.
Comments
A very decent Manzanilla. It is made from grapes grown in their own vineyards, the Viña Alamedilla in the pago Carrascal. I don't know anything about the solera yet.

Price
Not available in the UK unfortunately.

Bodegas: Francisco Yuste

Yuste is a comparative newcomer to the Sherry trade, the Sanlúcar family having made its money mainly in the transport and drinks distribution business. Over the years they have been involved in such activities as lemonade and groceries, and now, Francisco Yuste Brioso, the current head of the business, is involved with distribution logistics, property, publicity and graphic design, cash and carry - and Sherry. He is a real entrepreneur who has rescued soleras and bodegas from oblivion, creating a dynamic and very interesting family Sherry business.

Francisco Yuste in his bodega Miraflores (foto JC Sanchez)

The firm owns a 46 hectare vineyard, Viña Alamedilla, in the Cortijo de Espartinas in the pago Carrascal which was once owned by Domecq. They also own Bodega Miraflores, a modern bodega on the site of an older one on the road to Chipiona, where must is fermented (some in barrel) and sobretablas are stored. It used to belong to the Cooperativa de Miraflores till it was bought by Grupo Estevez.

Another is the picturesque XIX century Bodega Los Ángeles in Calle Luís de Eguílaz near the Castillo Santiago, which occupies a whole block. Yuste bought it in 2001 then had it renovated. Here there are four naves round a central patio, three of which are filled with barrels and the fourth is a bar called Mosto El Cuartel. There is also space for people to hold parties and celebrations.

Inside bodega Los Angeles

Stored here are the old soleras of the bodega Banda Playa, whose first proprietor was Don León Aldama Raspaldiza, the first Conde de Aldama. The old bodega has passed through various hands such as Antonio González Moreno, Valdespino and Manuel de Argüeso, and was in a dilapidated state, but Francisco Yuste managed to save three old soleras: Amontillado Dorotea (150 butts at around 200 years old – almost certainly the oldest wine in the region!), Moscatel IX Perlas and PX Corona. In total 840 butts are stored here.

The patio at bodega Los Angeles

There is a further bodega, Santa Ana with more wine, which like most of that stored in Los Ángeles is destined to be almacenista wine for trading to other bodegas. Yet another bodega was once owned by González Byass (presumably for their El Rocio which was once Viuda Manjon), and yet to house soleras. So keen on bodegas is he that Francisco actually lives in one and has his offices there in the Calle Regina, 49 which he renovated and which was once the bodega of Rainera Perez Marin La Guita. And in January 2016 he bought out the old firm of Argueso. He is not in a hurry. He wants to get his wines right and market them when times are better. As he puts it, now is the time to invest.

The wines:

Manzanilla en rama La Kika (Dedicated to Yuste’s mother, it is @ 8-9 yeras old).

Manzanilla Señorita Irene: A fresh fragrant wine from a fine solera

Manzanilla Aurora: Famous brand bought from Pedro Romero
La Monteria Range: More commercial but good, much goes to Japan.
Conde de Aldama Range: The oldest and finest Amontillado and Palo Cortado

Yuste also supplies small quantities of very fine Manzanilla Pasada seasonally to Antonio Barbadillo Mateos for his brand Sacristia AB.

Address: Bodega Miraflores, Carretera de Chipiona, Sanlucar de Barrameda, Cadiz

Telephone: (+34) 956 385 201

Website: www.yuste.com 

Visits: Yes but by prior appointment

2.1.15 Death Announced of Zoilo Ruiz Mateos

Zoilo Ruíz Mateos Jiménez de Tejada who died on New Year’s Eve after a battle with Alzheimer was the brother of the founder of Rumasa, Jose María and the respectable face of the company. A great connoisseur of wine, he was the best oenologist Rumasa could have had, and it was he who secured the “100 year deal" with Harveys to supply them with Sherry. He was vice president of Rumasa, specialising in wine matters from his office at the Atalaya (a beautiful house in Jerez which was Rumasa’s local HQ), and was well liked.

Zoilo in the good days (foto diariojerez)

Bodegas: Juan Haurie

Jean Haurie Nebout was born in Villesegure, Béarn, in the lower French Pyrenees, in about 1719. He was clever and wise, and could spot a good business opportunity, especially if it concerned wine. In 1740 he came to Jerez. He lived in the Plaza Plateros where he ran a bakery/drapery/general merchant business –virtually next door to Patrick Murphy.

Plaza Plateros today

Murphy was an Irish farmer, born possibly in County Cork, who had come to Jerez in 1725 and established a timber business, having no doubt fled Ireland for religious, political or poverty reasons. He was a bachelor and of a slightly sickly disposition, but had a good eye for business and soon saw that the Sherry trade was more profitable. By 1730 he had established himself in the wine trade, having bought vineyards in Ramona, Prunes and Balbaína, and bodegas in the Calle Tornería, where he lived, and also Prado de San Sebastián.

Haurie and Murphy became close friends, and the former helped Murphy in his wine business until 1762 when he inherited it along with its vineyards on Murphy’s death. Murphy was a bachelor and had no one else to leave it to. Haurie was delighted to get properly into the wine trade, re-named the firm Juan Haurie, and abandoned his previous business. It flourished and he became well known and popular. He supplied the first wines to James Duff. But then his efforts collided with the restrictions imposed by the Gremio de la Vinatería (the powerful growers’ union), which would not let bodegas/exporters store the reserves of wine necessary for ageing (so they would have to buy more must from the growers). Haurie simply decided to take on all three sides of the business, and become a grower as well as an exporter and almacenista.

He binvested in spacious new bodegas and more vineyards. Like Murphy, he was a bachelor, and with succession in mind, he constituted a new company in about 1773 with his five nephews: Juan José, Juan Pedro, Juan Luís, Juan Carlos and Pedro de Lembeye y Haurie and named the firm Juan Haurie & Sobrinos.

He died in 1794, and his nephews continued with the firm, becoming the biggest exporters. Juan José had been longest in Jerez, and had many contacts and good knowledge of the industry, so his contribution to the company was decisive. Things did not go well, however.

These were difficult times, and Napoleon invaded Spain in 1808. With their French background, this made life very difficult for the sobrinos (and not a few other bodegas – French or not). Juan Carlos, who had really helped the firm to become the biggest exporter in Jerez, now faced a dilemma. Despite having always lived in Jerez, he still had French blood, and so opted to support the invaders during the War of Independence.

This provoked great anger and, on the 2^nd of June 1808, a furious crowd assembled, baying for his blood. Priests did all they could to restore the peace and preach forgiveness, but the people weren’t in the mood to listen. So the mayor decided to let loose the bulls at the crowd – a more efficient remedy than today's rubber bullets and tear gas!

Juan Carlos now received “favours” from the French. In Napoleon’s name, Maréchal Soult awarded him the concession to supply the French troops. Farmers and bodegueros were forced to supply him with their wares which he then handed over to the French, but he was allowed him to keep the wine and provisions he wanted. Even worse, Juan Carlos shamelessly began to collect the taxes imposed by the French on the people to pay for the war. The first French troops arrived in Xerez (as it was called then) at mid-morning on the 4^th February 1810, from where they initiated the siege of Cádiz. They left on the 26^th August 1812. After two and a half years of occupation, endless looting, abuse and oppression, they left Jerez in total ruin and desolation. In 1811, Joseph Bonaparte (nicknamed unaffectionately “Pepe Botella”, or Joe the Bottle (who in fact was not a drinker) celebrated his Saint’s Day, in his requisitioned house in the Calle Francos, exactly one year before the “year of hunger”.

After the French had finally been expelled, Juan Carlos Haurie was totally ruined. He had to pay a fortune in compensation, and the French Government “forgot” to pay its debts to him. Haurie was left alone and penniless. He couldn't possibly pay his debts, and had to pay his capataz (cellarmaster) Juan Sánchez in brandy, wine, anís or even their containers. Things did not improve, and in 1815 he was declared fraudulently bankrupt, and jailed. By this time the other sobrinos had all died.

Pedro Domecq Lembeye (from Usquain, Béarn) was Juan Carlos Haurie's brilliant cousin and great nephew of Juan Haurie, Although born in Jerez, had been working in London with a firm called Gordon, Murphy and Co. who were Haurie's agents. He later formed a company called Ruskin, Telford and Domecq who for a while imported both Haurie and Duff Gordon wines. Eventually when Pedro Domecq returned to Spain, Ruskin (1785-1864, father of John Ruskin) acted as his agent and both prospered.

From 1822 the bodega del Castillo at the Puerta de Rota, the San Blas cooperage, 144 ares of vineyard in the Macharnudo and 22 in Parpalana were leased to Pedro Domecq, and he ended up buying the lot - and paying off some off the debt. He also re-purchased the Macharnudo vineyard Haurie had been forced to sell. As Domecq once rightly said “I managed to make my entire fortune in only two years of hard work”.

Pedro Domecq

Juan Carlos was a complete scoundrel. Despite his agreement with Domecq, in 1824 he founded a new partnership involving William Garvey, his nephew Juan Haurie and James Wilson using Domecq’s good name. Wilson came from Dunbar in Scotland, and his brother, a doctor, would do great work during the cholera epidemic of 1834. Haurie claimed to be the biggest shipper, but most of the wine was in fact shipped by Garvey and Wilson. Juan Carlos died in 1828. Haurie proceeded to go bust in 1841, again in 1855, stuttering on somehow till 1877, when Domecq took over entirely. According to Customs records, they exported 2,340 butts in 1870. Pedro Domecq meanwhile, was making a great reputation and becoming very prosperous, building what would become one of the great bodega firms.

See also the post: Juan Haurie, a Smart Businessman