Tuesday, 11 September 2012

2012 Fiesta de la Vendimia gets under way


The activities of the 2012 Fiesta de la Vendimia get under way today with the symbolic act of treading the grapes outside the cathedral. There will be a reception at the Alcazar to celebrate this event and also the European Wine Tourism day.

Another exciting event is free courses in dancing of the Buleria (Jerez’ own style of Flamenco) offered by Jerezano Antonio “El Pipa from today till Friday at the centre for Flamenco known as “Danzalucia” in the calle Ponce.

Antonio "El Pipa"


From today till Saturday15th The Consejo is holding Grand Tastings at the Alcazar and on Sunday a charity tasting at the bodega San Gines, the Consejo's own bodega.


Bodegas: Lacave y Cia.


The firm was established in Cadiz in 1810 by Pedro Lacave, born in the Department of Lower Pyrenees in France in 1776. He left France due to food shortages in 1791 and went to Cadiz. His maternal uncle had a shop there and he worked there as an assistant  Later he worked in his cousin’s shipping business until he decided to start up on his own. He took on as a partner, one Mr McDermont and registered the business under the title “Lacave y Cia.” He married in 1821 a Jerez girl, Ana Maria Lacoste Salazar, but they had no children. After  Mcdermont’s death in 1824, Lacave carried on alone until 1832, when he took on another partner, his fellow countryman Pablo Echecopar, forming the house of Lacave & Echecopar.

Some years later, Lacave brought his three nephews to join the business and this proved to be a powerful influence on its prosperity, developing into banking, bodegas and industry. Lacave ships travelled everywhere freely, transporting Spanish goods direct to the markets avoiding the London monopoly on certain goods, especially Sherry. A quay was built at La Segunda Aguada on the outskirts of Cadiz on land purchased in 1849 for the storage of timber imported from Northern Europe for their own use and for selling to the cooperages of the Sherry country. This storage grew to occupy 90,000 square metres.

In 1848 Juan Pedro, delegated to Sevilla founded the company JP Lacave & Cia specialising in cereals, oil and cork. Meanwhile Pedro dedicated himself to the wine side of the business while the other partners looked after other aspects of the business, especially banking. Notable among these industrial firms were Los Amigos, a woollen cloth manufacturer in Sevilla and La Cartuja which manufactured porcelain and floor tiles. Pedro Lacave died in 1850, leaving his fortune to his nephews. Wine exports had progressed so well that the firm decided to drop other business and dedicate itself to wine. In 1870 the original company name Lacave & Cia. was re-adopted, and the firm even had installed its own railway for the transport of wine from the bodegas, not to mention a Civil Guard barracks!

These bodegas consisted of two large warehouses divided by pillars in which were to be found large stacks of cases, long rows of barrels and a bottle store. There were also offices, a tasting and sample room and a tool store where barrels were branded and labels applied. The dispatch warehouses gave onto the quayside, and in La Segunda Aguada there was a large area for washing barrels, equipped with all imaginable machinery for the manufacture of barrel hoops, wires and staples to secure the cased goods. There was a mechanised sawmill where around a hundred people worked. Except for the peace of the bodegas, all was noise and bustle.  On the quayside there was a huge mast for signalling to ships, and various cranes. There was also a bottling shop, two gas engines and three steam engines with two large boilers, They even had telephones a while before most citizens were able to have them.

Of the numerous wines they exported round the world, the most in demand – especially in France - was the golden sweet wine. Another equally successful style was the “Madeira” from Jerez and Malaga. The bodegas’ proximity to the sea added to the quality of their wines. Having owned vineyards, the firm decided it was more convenient to buy in grapes or must, but with the exception of Moscatel and Tintilla de Rota, where their property extended to over 5,000 m2. The buildings there formed a rectangle consisting of offices, living quarters for the vineyard manager and three large bodegas where the wine was produced.

The firm had incredible vitality. In 1811 they produced 35 hectolitres, and in 1896 they produced 19,375 hectolitres. Their top market was France, followed by the United States and Sweden – where such was their domination of the market that people would ask for a “Lacave” rather than a Sherry. But all good things come to an end and the company was taken over by Rumasa in 1978 with the soeras taken to Williams & Humbert. Where the  majestic Lacave bodegas once stood, blocks of housing now stand – in the barriada (district) Lacave!



Sunday, 9 September 2012

Bodegas: Agustin Blázquez

Agustin Blazquez y Blazquez was born in Antequera (Malaga) in 1826 moving to Cadiz in the early 1850s where he worked as a merchant. He married Servanda de Paul y Picardo, from a prominent local family in 1857, and they had eight children. Agustin achieved great success in business, due in no small part to his wife's social and business connections. Thanks to diligence and a reputation for quality the family was soon able to build a substantial and palatial house in the Calle de la Novena.



Regarding the Sherry business, there is some doubt as to when it was founded. It could have been in 1795 by the Paul family, of possible Scottish origins but more likely from northern Spain, or it could have been in the 1820s. It was certainly the Paul family (See Bodegas Paul & Dastis) who built up the business throughout the XIX century, steadily acquiring more vineyards and bodegas. During the 1850s it was run by Manuel Francisco de Paul, whose sister Servanda, married Agustin Blázquez. Servanda died from a fever in 1881 aged only 44 and Agustin inherited much of the business. He died in 1886 leaving a large fortune. The bodega business was taken over by their son Manuel who re-named it Hijos de Agustin Blázquez SA, and it continued in family hands till 1972 when it was bought for 500 million pesetas by Pedro Domecq, Osborne and González Byass in a joint purchase to keep it - and them - safely out of the hands of Rumasa. It was later absorbed by Domecq.

The evolution of Carta Blanca from single pago Amontillado Fino (L) to inexpensive Fino

The bodegas occupied an entire block in central Jerez bounded by the streets Sevilla, Paul, Santo Domingo and Eguilez. The firm was known for producing wines from particular vineyards (or vinos de pago), for example the Fino Agustinito came from the Balbaina and their Capuchino Palo Cortado and Carta Blanca from the Macharnudo. They were also famous for Felipe II and Anticuario brandies.



Domecq continued to operate Blázquez independently if rather briefly. With the arrival of democracy in Spain, town councils had to reorganise, and the old bodegas, part of which originated in the XVIII C, were pulled down to make room for housing except for one bit which is now a municipal exhibition centre, and is known locally as the Callejon de los Bolos. Domecq itself  (QV) was in turn split up by successive takeovers.

The old Blazquez bodegas (R) and what is now the Consejo Regulador (L)

The main brands sold by Blázquez were the “Carta” range:
Carta Blanca Fino; Carta Blanca Amontillado-Fino, Carta Roja Oloroso; Carta Azul PX; Carta Plata Amontillado, Manzanilla La Flor, Manzanilla Pasada Gloria and the above mentioned Agustinito and Capuchino Palo Cortado Superior. There were some other legendary wines such as the Oloroso Manila 1833 and the Anada 1840. 




So what if anything is left? Only Capuchino really. After being bottled under Domecq labels for a few years as a (well over) 30 year old VORS, it is now owned and bottled by Osborne (QV), as is the brandy. Some Blázquez soleras were bought by Joaquin Rivero Valcarce to establish his Bodegas Tradicion in the late 1990s.

While so many bodegas have disappeared over the years, the soleras generally have not. They may change hands and get new brand names, but old soleras are gold dust in Jerez. You can’t just start up a new bodega, it would take decades to build any sort of complexity into a new solera. All you can do is buy existing soleras if available, like Tradicion. Jerezanos have long memories and a deep sense of nostalgia, and great old names are still remembered - and often the wines are still drunk, though no longer produced by the original company. Quite a thought.

Amontillado Seco Dorius 18%, Valdivia

Appearance
Pure amber with light coppery tints, fading to yellow at the rim, legs.
Nose
Very fresh, clean, round and quite nutty. traces of sultana, toasted nuts, oil, resin, something slightly sweet like madeira cake or turron yema tostada (ground almond and honey bar with egg yolk toasted on top). Fairly complex and attractive with a touch of finesse.
Palate
None of the astringency of long ageing, but perhaps a slight tannic note yet light on the palate with some crisp charm. Dryness tempered by honey roast nuts and an attractive balancing tang with a bitter edge of walnut/almond, decent length and perfect for meaty tapas.
Comments
The bodega was set up by Rumasa and its history is very much interlinked. After the collapse of Nueva Rumasa it was in a difficult position and was on the market for some time. In September 2015 an offer from Jose y Miguel Martin, coopers and wine dealers with an extensive cask seasoning service to the spirits industry, was accepted by the administrators. It remains to be seen what their plans are for the bodega. This wine is fairly hard to find but worth looking out for. The whole Valdivia concept is a good one and the wines have proved themselves with medals and awards.
Price
£ 17.45 from Peckhams


Bodegas: Valdivia


Valdivia was originally established by Rumasa in 1960, and passed through the hands of Williams & Humbert and then in 2003 to Intermonte, an investment and construction group from Murcia. They bought the grand house the Villa del Duque and neighbouring bodegas from Williams and Humbert which they proceeded to revamp, converting the Villa into a hotel, thus creating Jerez’ first wine tourism centre in a complex of 20,000 m2 located in the central Barrio Santiago.

The three bodegas called Valdivia, Pedro de Valdivia and Sacromonte were up dated to the highest level of equipment and the enologist Rafael Veas was installed. Vineyards extending to 250 hectares were bought - the Pago de la Plata in Jerez Superior.


In March 2008 the complex was bought by Nueva Rumasa for 20 million Euros through its Grupo Garvey subsidiary, which is now in administration. Nueva Rumasa was sold by the Ruiz Mateos family to Back in Business, a company specialising in revitalising companies with difficulties, and which received offers to buy Valdivia – including its debts – but refused. Angel de Cabo, owner of Back in business is currently in jail, and the bodega is not working, so heaven knows what will happen to it.

The bodega produces Brandies and Vino de la Tierra de Cadiz as well as the following Sherries:

The Valdivia Suite range, aged for 5-10 years:
Fino; Manzanilla “La Rubia”;PX; Medium; Cream; Pale Cream; Oloroso Seco; Amontillado Seco

The Sacromonte range aged over 15 years:
Amontillado; PX; Oloroso

Contact
Address: C/ Zoilo Ruiz Mateos Camacho s/n, 11408 Jerez de la Frontera, Cadiz
Tel: (+34) 956 314 358
Web: bodegasvaldivia.com

Bottling Dates

Great news that GB has decided to print bottling dates on all Tio Pepe labels. Let's hope other bodegas follow suit.

It is impossible for the consumer to know how long a non vintage wine has been lying around, or indeed how well it has been stored. By its very nature, Sherry is very rarely a vintage wine, and the Finos in particular can go stale or spoil if sitting around on shop shelves or on bar gantries for too long.

Despite most Finos having the words "Serve chilled" printed on labels, most bars in my experience have their Tio Pepe - for it usually is Tio Pepe - exposed to light and un-chilled sitting on the gantry slowly oxidising away. This is obviously bad for the consumer, the bodega and Sherry in general. Perhaps a concentrated campaign by the bodegas, aimed at bars in particular, to point out shelf  life and serving issues might help, and I strongly recommend it.

Many houses in the Champagne trade are now printing disgorgement dates on labels rather than bottling dates, but it is not far from the same thing, as effectively once the wine is separated from the yeast it will begin to age more rapidly.

News from Jerez 9.9.12

Bottling dates
Gonzalez Byass has announced that bottling dates will be printed on the labels of Tio Pepe from this month onwards. Hopefully this will ensure that your Fino will always be fresh. Splendid idea!

Euromillions
Great news that someone in Jerez has won 267,078 Euros. Let's hope they invest it wisely. In Sherry perhaps?