Thursday, 4 May 2017
Oloroso Añada 1986 18%, Hidalgo La Gitana
Bright antique chestnut to mahogany to amber with a hint of green at the rim, legs.
A powerful yet elegant with an aromatic combination of perfumed exotic wood and toasted nut notes, mainly almond and walnut along with savoury salty aromas and a balancing sweet note of warm spices. There is considerable complexity here, and one could sniff it forever.
Intense and clean with a certain crispness which gives it a fresh edge yet it is generous, well rounded, perfumed with spices, a savoury hint and a trace of orange. It is full of life and after 20 or so years in wood it has remarkably little tannin and a gentle salt edged texture. Terrific length.
This beautiful vintage Oloroso is the only one produced in Sanlúcar, in fact the only other vintage wine is a Manzanilla from La Callejuela. It is made from grapes grown in the firm's own vineyards in the pagos Balbaina and Miraflores, and only the mosto yema (first pressing) is used. The wine was aged statically for over 20 years under official Consejo Regulador seals, watched over by winemaker Antonio Sánchez, and bottled about 10 years ago, and both barrel and bottle age have rounded it off to perfection. It most deservedly won a gold at last year's International Wine Challenge.
85 euros per 50 cl ex bodega