Friday, 26 May 2017

Amontillado Viejo Pastrana 20%, Hidalgo La Gitana

Mahogany through amber to perhaps a trace of green at the rim, legs.
Forthcoming crisp and welcoming with a savoury note reminiscent of old Manzanilla cabezuela and plenty of toasted almonds with a glyceric edge which contrasts beautifully with a note of salinity. It has a slightly lively, wild Sanlucar character, even for a wine of this age. There are faint oak notes which blend in almost unnoticed to this clean complex and subtle nose.
The tangy, crispness at the start could only mean Sanlucar, then a delightful nuttiness appears giving one ideas of sweetness, yet it is low on glycerine, almost lean, but packed with flavour and character and only just enough glycerine to round it all off leaving an exciting wine with unique characteristics.
This is a rare thing, a single vineyard Amontillado. It comes from the 14 hectare Pastrana vineyard in the Pago Miraflores, famous for the firm's Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana, and is simply the same wine aged for much longer, around 50 years, and from selected butts, some of which date back to the firm's foundation in 1792.
77.10 euros ex bodega

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