Monday, 20 March 2017

Manzanilla Velo Flor 15%, Bodegas Alonso

Fairly deep brassy yellow with gold and bronze highlights, legs.
Deep, slightly brooding and complex with all sorts of aromas such as straw, camomile, yeasty flor bitterness, traces of nuts and butter from the cabezuela and a mineral salinity. This is a serious wine, definitely pasada and quite full, slightly concentrated Manzanilla.
Full and loaded with flavour. It has an attractive trace of oiliness and butteriness from the autolysis balanced by a vague whiff of cider, a gentle acidity and the bitter flor notes. This is lovely, more pasada than some yet the word doesn't appear on the label.
This is a new Manzanilla aged between 9 and 10 years in a solera  established by the Asencio brothers who fairly recently set up Bodegas Alonso by buying The old Mendez bodega and some very old soleras previously belonging to Gaspar Florido then Pedro Romero. To improve cash flow and expand the range they are working on two Manzanilla soleras; this one and another based on older pedro Romero wines which is not yet available. This one is based on wines bought in from almacenistas and will be fed from bought-in mostos, acquiring its own characteristics over time, while the other will be fed by mostos produced from their own 13 hectares of vineyard. One real key to the quality of these wines is the bodega. It might be in a dilapidated state, but it is so close to the Guadalquivir, almost at sea level, that it has perfect conditions for ageing Manzanilla. Meanwhile the brothers are working hard to restore it, while retaining a totally artisan set up. The wine is bottled in a unique shape of bottle for Sherry, en rama and sealed with a good quality driven cork and wax. Don't over chill. If this is the shape of things to come, I can't wait!
25 euros from Er Guerrita

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