Friday, 4 July 2014

Fino Coquinero 17%, Osborne

Deepish bright golden straw, light legs.
Most attractive and fuller than many. There is a yeastiness with traces of straw and some briny salinity too, all very polished, then you notice traces of almond and hazelnut and a very slight hint of apparent sweetness balanced by the bitterness of the Flor. This is older Fino with a hint of finely controlled oxidation giving it a little more weight.
For a Fino it is full and quite serious, plenty of complexity from the still present bitter Flor mingling with the nuttier notes of the early Amontillado stage. This is lovely, and it has that roundness of the Puerto wines which balances with a hint of Flor at the end, which lingers for quite a while.
This is a lovely Sherry of a style not seen much now, a Fino-Amontillado. It ages for 4.5 years as a Fino and then it is fortified to 17%, killing off the flor, and ages oxidatively for 2 more years. It used to be sold as an Amontillado, but is now called a Fino, and I'm not sure if it is now younger than before. Anyway, it is well regarded by the trade. FYI - A "coquinero" is someone who collects cockleshells and is also a slang term for someone from El Puerto de Santa Maria.
8-9 Euros in Spain. Hard to find in the UK, but has someone selling it for £12.99.

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