While there are encouraging signs in Jerez; the Sherryfest
in New York, the Copa De Jerez, the new air of support for the growers, the
re-balancing of supply and demand for example, deep seated attitudes need to
change.
For far too long, customers have dictated the price of the (usually
bulk, blended) wine, and these constraints have fed through the exporters
(bodegas) to the growers who have been expected to come up with grapes at a
ludicrously cheap, ruinous price. Sherry may be one of the World’s finest
wines, but the grapes are the cheapest anywhere – much the same price as 30
years ago - and that is never good for long-term quality. Indeed the price of
the wine has barely changed in real terms since the 19th century! This is quite unsustainable for commercial reasons, quite apart from those of image.
Let us hope that good sense – good commercial sense-
prevails. How come a Rioja with one or two years’ crianza can sell for so much
more than an older Sherry with a far more complex ageing system? It is madness.
As a consumer, I naturally don’t want to see prices rise, but what I do want to see is the very survival of my beloved Sherry.
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