Friday, 12 July 2019

Vino Blanco Mirabrás 2017 15%, Barbadillo

Slightly brassy strawy gold with golden highlights.
Lovely fresh herbaceous nose with plenty of seaside character and just a little flor allowing some notes of appley Palomino fruit through. There are all sorts of background subtleties like traces of candied fruit, tarte tatin and camomile which give it a delightful zesty youthfulness and a gentle richness as well, with a faint saline trace at the back. Subtle and classy.
Beautifully balanced and smooth with fairly low acidity letting the perfectly ripe fruit shine through. The 15% alcohol seems to bring out more depth of flavour without making it feel any stronger, and it certainly feels rounder. Needless to say there is a slight chalky texture and a hint of salinity but over all it is fruity, and with a lovely twist of flor at the end.
Mirabrás is a wonderfully interesting project, run by Montse Molina and Armando Guerra, which runs the gauntlet between classic Sanlúcar vino blanco and Manzanilla. There are only six toneles of wine yet every release is different. For example the 2016 was 13.5% and this 2017 is 15%, and in between there was a tiny release of 2012 Manzanilla Mirabrás (qv). They are really having fun, but also coming up with delicious and seriously interesting wines. Surprisingly this release has 15%, probably due to some sunning, but at only a year and a half or so of crianza, mostly in toneles filled to the top , it cannot officially be a Manzanilla. 5322 bottles.
14 euros, Licores Corredera

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