A blog and review on all things Sherry. It is about tasting, enjoyment and learning more about the World’s Finest Wine. "Sherry is a thoroughbred" as Javier Hidalgo rightly puts it. Included are the amazing local Brandies and the remarkably good table wines also produced in the province of Cádiz.
This bodega in El Puerto de Santa María was
founded in 1840 by the montañes father of Atanasio Quijano Cieza who took over
in 1865. He was blessed with great leadership qualities and was very successful
in whatever he did, be it bodegas, business, politics or any other field of
human relations. He was married to Concepción Rosende, whose father, an expert
arrumbador, gave him the advice he needed to expand the bodega business and
improve quality. They owned the 100 aranzada (47 hectare) vineyard called Las
Puentes in Balbaina Alta, and there was a bodega in the calle Caldevilla.The
family became prominent in the town.
Atanasio Quijano Cieza
One of the firm’s brands was Moscatel Las
Cuatro Perlas, and there is a story about that. Originally, Quijano marketed
this wine with the agreement of one Ramón Carlí who owned the trademark, but
after his death and through various inheritances, it now belonged to one
Domingo Rodríguez. There was no agreement about the use of the trademark and
the latter’s complaints fell on the deaf ears of Atanasio. The matter ended up
in court in 1900 with the judge finding in favour of Rodríguez.
Undaunted, Atanasio simply created and
registered a new brand: Las Cinco Perlas and carried on as before, later
acquiring a vineyard at Fuenterrabía which he called La Perlita. The firm
continued to prosper and had good export business in Africa, Cuba and New York among
other markets before tackling Spain itself. They claimed to be the first to
export in bottle to America. Atanasio died in 1932 and his son, Francisco
Quijano Rosende took over and grew the business as well as occupying many civic
and municipal posts.
The firm lasted until the late 1950s making a
wide range of products such as Ponche, Quina, and Anis as well as Brandies FQ,
Admirable, Rosende and Brillante along with Sherries such as their well-known
Oloroso Pata de Gallina (this 38 butt solera is now owned by the almacenista
Juan García Jarana and bottled by Lustau), Manzanilla Olorosa La Perlita, Royal
Cream, Amontillado Viejo 54, Solera Fina, Amontillado Fino Quijano and Old
Brown Sherry. The more commercial range consisted of Golden Sherry, Vino de
Pasto, Pale Sherry, Cabinet, Jubilee, Army and Navy (perhaps for the store of
that name in London) and Gran Vino Tónico Cíclope. Complete with laboratory
analysis on the back label.
(Thanks to Jose Luis Jimenez for content and pictures)