Fino Jaleo 2010 en rama Enero 2019 16%, Williams & Humbert

Appearance
Bright light amber with old gold highlights.

Nose

Forthcoming and full, it shows the complexity a wine can develop over 8 years plus, ageing statically, with no refreshment. It is impressive that the flor lasted this long, though it was obviously thin as there are distinct oxidative notes, which add greatly to its character, but it is still Fino. There are some briny saline notes of flor and traces of almond and straw and it it is at a lovely stage of development.

Palate

Some distinct oxidative notes with toasted almond, faint traces of caramel with its slight suggestion of sweetness, straw and apple herald the imminent but slow demise of the flor and the wine heading gently, valiantly, towards Amontillado. There is quite a lot of body for a Fino and the flavour is intense, dry, textured and complex with a very long finish. Lovely.

Comments

The grapes for this superb vino de añada (vintage wine) came from W&H vineyards in the pagos Añina and Carrascal averaging 60 and 20 years old respectively. Only first pressings were used and after fermentation the musts were fortified to 15.5%, filled into 36@ ex Fino butts and left to mature statically. Flor appeared spontaneously and the wine was classified as Fino in 2016. Its development was closely monitored for a total of over 8 years. If there were more of this wine in the bodega, it would be amazing to see it develop into a natural Amontillado... 2010 was a cooler and wetter year than average and this is reflected in the character of the wine since it is a vintage, not a solera wine. 2,200 x 50cl bottles of this fascinating wine were produced. Jaleo is the cheering and clapping which accompanies a flamenco performance.

Price

10.60 per 50 cl, Licores Corredera

Tintilla 2017 14.5%, Peter Maurer

Appearance
Opaque young black red with a tight purple rim beginning to show a little ruby.

Nose

Full and still a little closed but it exudes fresh young black fruits like a mix of bramble, blueberry and bramble. It also exudes a youthful freshness and a gentle fresh tang showing perfectly ripe fresh fruit which is not overpowered by the oak used in maturation which comes through slowly with faintly spicy balsamic traces, but overall, it is all about fruit.

Palate

Full bodied and quite tight being young still, and with a firm structure and attractive slightly chewy texture but the tannins are not aggressive and perfectly balance with the fruit, and acidity is spot on. Everything seems to be in perfect harmony and augurs well for interesting development over the next 4 - 5 years.

Comments

This is the first release of this new wine in the impressive Peter Maurer stable and made from 100% organic Tintilla grapes which are indigenous to Cádiz. As the firm´s vineyards are not planted to Tintilla, he bought in carefully selected grapes from Bodega Forlong which is also organic. Temperature control was applied during maceration and fermentation in stainless steel tanks as at lower temperatures the wine ferments more slowly and retains maximum freshness. It was then aged in fine grain medium-toast oak barrels for 12 months in an environment where temperature and humidity were carefully controlled before being fined with organic egg white and contract bottled at the bodega he rents in Vejer de la Frontera.

Price

15.75, Licores Corredera

Brandy Uno en Mil Solera Gran Reserva Single Cask 16/1000 40%, Romate

Appearance

Antique polished mahogany fading to amber with old gold to copper highlights.

Nose

Good fresh clean spirit whose aromas are not totally dominated by Sherry and which can speak for itself, though there is some there naturally, and quite possibly Amontillado rather than  Oloroso. It doesn´t appear to have been sweetened or if so only very sightly as there is a faint aroma of brown sugar there along with a hint of dried spices like cinnamon. This is very subtle, elegant and classy.

Palate

Remarkably harmonious, fairly light and elegant all the way through with some traces of sweetness, dried fruits and Sherry, but all very subtle, adding to - rather than dominating - a good spirit. It is very clean with distant hints of spice, cacao, tobacco and wood, and had a dry finish with considerable length leaving all sorts of complex nuances in its wake.

Comments

Sánchez Romate have long been one of the leading brandy producers in Jerez since they established the Cardenal Mendoza solera in 1888, and for which they have 1,000 numbered butts of holandas stored in their Barreras bodega. The spirit is distilled from wine made from Airén grapes, slowly and at low strength for maximum quality and flavour, and after at least 12 years of ageing, five butts are selected by the firm´s master distiller, Ricardo Real and oenologist Reyes Gómez from those individual butts which have developed the most interesting aroma and flavour profiles. These will then be bottled as one-offs, or "single oak casks" each one of which of course being unique from the others and producing about 1,000 bottles from each butt at 40%/vol. Theoretically then, every time you buy a bottle of this brandy it will be from a different cask and therefore a new experience.

Price

28.50, Licores Corredera

Al Tun Tun 2016 10.5%, 4 Ojos Wines

Appearance

Bright clean lemony gold with golden highlights.
Nose

Moscatel is aromatic already thanks to its higher than usual terpene content, but this is positively perfumed and super fresh with notes of white flowers, geranium, jasmine, honeysuckle. There is just a little weight there and an almost undetectable trace of Sherry in the background mixed with a trace of fresh sea air giving the wine great personality.

Palate

Fresh, perfectly balanced and tasty with that faint Sherry note appearing again giving the wine a fraction more weight and a unique character. It is clean and dry with that characteristic albariza chalky texture and a roundness from the time spent on lees. Long, clean, dry grapey finish. Lovely.
Comments

The expression "al tun tun" means "something good that has happened fortuitously or by chance" and it is the perfect name for this wine which is another dry Moscatel de Alejandría from albariza soils from the three girls at 4 Ojos Wines based in El Puerto de Santa María. The must is fermented in a stainless steel tank where it remains for a year on its fine lees. Then it is racked into an old Amontillado butt where it spends 10 months absorbing extra complexity. The quantity is tiny, but the quality is excellent and it has a delightful flavour all its own. No vintage date appears on the label but the wine is from 2016 and was bottled en rama.

Price

20.10 euros Licores Corredera

Fino Caberrubia 16%, Bodegas Luis Pérez

Appearance
Bright yellowy brassy gold with golden highlights.

Nose

Fresh and very attractive with all sorts of interesting nuances. The fact that the strength was achieved by asoleo gives a riper, much fruitier aroma of stewed apple and perhaps a trace of apricot, enhanced by the much less than usual aldehydic bitterness from flor which tends to do away with fruitiness. It is quite like a Palomino table wine only fuller and stronger with very faint strawy oxidative notes.

Palate

Fuller, fruitier and rounder than the yeasty flor-driven Fino we are accustomed to, and initial suggestions of sweetness are soon dispelled as the chalky albariza makes its drying presence felt aided by a trace of flor, giving the wine a dry texture, a structure even, and certainly length. The overriding impression is one of wine made the old fashioned way, in a style we are no longer used to, but which beautifully complements those currently available, showing just how interesting Sherry is.

Comments

This is the latest Sherry from Bodegas Luis Pérez and it is not only excellent but seriously interesting. Up till now Willy Pérez has been releasing this unfortified Fino Barajuela as a vintage (añada) wine, but this is a cabeceo (blend) of four vintages (2013-16 inc.) but blended rather like Champagne in the tasting room to create something new and different rather than using a solera. The average age of this wine (depending on proportions in the blend) is 4.5 years, similar to many Finos. The Palomino vines, which are around 50 years old with very low yields, are in the Barajuela vineyard in the highest point of the Viña El Corregidor which is in the middle of the pago Carrascal. Barajuela is the type of albariza found here, consisting of thin laminates of fossilied diatoms. The grapes are briefly sunned to concentrate the sugars and avoid the need for fortification and the must is fermented in butts. Ageing is static with only a small space allowed for flor so it can´t dominate the flavour and allows some fruit through. As Willy says "menos velo y más suelo" - less flor and more soil. Only 3812 bottles and 60 magnums have been produced, or a little under 3,000 litres, or around five butts. The wine was bottled en rama.

Price

19.85 Licores Corredera

Eating Well in Sanlúcar

Its location largely dictates the kind of food on offer in Sanlúcar: lying on the shore of the Guadalquivir Estuary and close to the Atlantic, seafood is what it does best, and Manzanilla is naturally what accompanies it best. The town is noted for the quality of its potatoes and the langostinos even have a Denominación de Origen, and there is an incredible variety of fine seafood landed at the quayside of Bonanza, just a little upstream from Sanlúcar. Not only is the quality of the raw material excellent but also that of the cuisine, and many good restaurants can be found along the beach in the Bajo de Guía area from where one can contemplate the Coto Doñana and centuries of history. The general standard is very high and the following are just some of the best places to eat.

El Mirador de Doñana, Avenida Bajo de Guía, 0

Traditional Sanluqueño cuisine made from local produce freshly sourced every day. The philosophy is respect for the produce and its pairing with the local wine.

Restaurante Poma, Avenida Pórtico de Bajo de Guía, 6

There are three dining areas and the  walls are decorated with all sorts of objects connected with the sea while the cuisine specialises mainly in seafood and shellfish stews.

Casa Bigote, Avenida Pórtico de Bajo de Guía, 10

One of the oldest and most famous, established in 1951. There is a tapas bar and a proper restaurant with just about everything one can imagine from the sea and beautifully cooked.

Restaurante Avante Claro, Avenida Pórtico de Bajo de Guía, 4

Traditional Andalusian seafood cuisine with a few modern touches including vegetarian options. Bar and restaurant inside with a terrace facing the estuary.

Gastrobar-Restaurante El Espejo, Calle Caballeros, 11

Located in an XVIII century mansion with a beautiful patio opposite the Orléans-Borbón palace. Chef José Luis Fernández´menu is less seafood dominated with plenty of organic vegetables and meat too, and the wine list is excellent.

Taberna Argüeso, Calle Mar, 2

An adjunct to the Argüeso bodegas offering a fusion of traditional and vanguard with classic local seafood dishes, retinto beef, almadraba tuna, ceviche and sushi.

Casa Balbino, Plaza del Cabildo, 14

Situated at no. 30 in the 100 best European “Gourmet Casual” restaurants section of Opinionated About Dining and famed for its tortillitas de camarón, it also offeres classic Sanluqueño fish, shellfish and seafood stews.

Barbiana, Calle Ancha, 2

Naturally the excellent Manzanilla Barbiana is served here, along with classic local tapas such as papas aliñás con melva, ensaladilla de langostinos, calamares rellenos and galeras cocidas.

Taberna der Guerrita, corner Calle San Salvador and Calle Rubiños

This is both a friendly local bar and a temple to Sanlúcar wine with an enormous range and even a shop. The food is great too with all sorts of local seafood, pork, duck and beef.

Chiringuito Alfonsito, Callejón de Guía,45

A chiringuito is a beach restaurant and here fish is grilled or cooked on skewers stuck into sand in a little old boat. They offer rice with lobster, sardines, and all kinds of seafood.

Casa Perico, Salvador Gallardo, 27

This is a classic Sanlúcar bar, tapas bar and restaurant serving all kinds of well cooked traditional seafood generously and unpretentiously and at a reasonable price.

Weisshorn, Calle Sevilla, 30

Named after a rice ship which sank in the estuary, this is an amazing place. The restaurant specialises in the arabic cuisine of old Andalucía and offers vegetarian options, while they also have a distillery making gin and vodka and even an adjacent electric guitar maker.

Bodegas La Cigarrera, Plaza Madre de Dios

Imagine dining in a bodega! The atmosphere of this XVIII century bodega with its patio is lovely and the food is classic traditional Sanlúcar fare. They will even cook fish you bring with you for a modest price.

Lantero, Calle Ancha, 51
This is more of a modern wine bar with a good wine list and offers ibérico pork and quality beef as well as seafood dishes. They also offer a wide range of tapas.

 

Harveys Amontillado 19%, Bodegas Fundador

Appearance

Chestnut tinged deep amber with old gold highlights fading to amber.

Nose

Lightish, crisp, nutty and fairly tight with toasted almond, hazelnut and a note of dried autumn leaves. There is a very gentle background sweetness balanced by traces of oak and walnut, and the faintest hint of bitter flor from the biological ageing giving the wine an interesting edge and notable charm.

Palate

Fresh, crisp, light and elegant thanks to those attractive hints of biological ageing, yet it is definitely an Amontillado with traces of caramel, lots of nuts, a suspicion of dried fruit and that impression of a hint of sweetness which gives Amontillado its charm. It is clean, dry and long with considerable character.

Comments

This very fine wine is made from 100% Macharnudo grapes from the firm´s own vineyards and aged in a solera dating from 1928.  It is probably between about 12 and 15 years old and is at that lovely stage between mature Fino and young Amontillado - though closer to the latter. While it is a very good wine and the bottle is quite smart, it is not over-practical as its slim shape means it is easily knocked over, but I am sure you take good care of your Sherry!

Price
18 euros per 50 cl, De Albariza